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Routes in Daff Dome West Face

Bearded Clam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Blown Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chvchichaschtli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cooke Book T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crescent Arch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Condor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grey Ghost T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Plagiarism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
R.C.A. T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
West Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West of the Witch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch of the West S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo 1973
Page Views: 623 total, 16/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Starts up the beautiful mini-corner Right of Crescent Arch with three pitches of successively more committing and wonderfully varied, quality 5.8 climbing.

Scramble 4th class up to the corner from the sandy ledge with two evergreen trees and setup a belay. 60 feet.

P1: Climb up the low angle hand crack until it steepens to fingers/hands and make a 5.8 move. Above this the crack disappears make a spicy 5.8 face traverse 20 feet right past good knobs to a two bolt belay.

P2: Climb more or less straight right about 20 feet from the belay on sustained 5.8+ knobs with no protection over to the black water streak, continue up to a prominent dike that crosses the face. Another 10 feet or so up the streak reaches a very welcome new ASCA bolt. Continue up the streak 5.7 past wonderful knobs, numerous pockets and horizontals with great gear. Belay to the right from the bolts on the ledge above. The tree can be avoided and left undamaged by traversing just below it on a horizontal.

P3: From bolted anchor, climb up and right to a shallow left facing corner to reach super fun horizontals. Climb up past a few horizontals, the last with good small TCU's. The difficulties end with a hard, committing and improbable mantle with dangerous fall potential (5.8+ R), maybe the most dangerous and difficult move of the route. Continue up on easy terrain to a ledge with evergreen trees.

Scramble 4th class to the summit.

Location

Ascends the arching corner Right of Crescent Arch on the west face of Daff Dome.

Protection

A single set of cams to 2", set of TCU's, a #0.25 Tricam is very useful, about 8 runners, stoppers.

Photos

Memorial Day in the late 80's. The Meadoes..."Nobody goes there anymore it's too crowded"

Crowd on West Crack, Crescent, Cooke. So buddy finds up this "gem".


We did the direct face variation on the first pitch (right of pretty dihedral). Long story. Very runout and untrammeled...do no recommend.

Also my partner tried to lead the 3rd pitch off the ledge and as described, there is serious ledge potential on the mantle. Your gear is about 15' off ledge and mantle is 30'.

He lowered off TCU after downclimbing and left it in before traversing straight right (escape variation, see old blue Tuolumne guide w/ Dale Bard on cover). While this was a good strategy----and recommended!!!, it left me pulling his TCU from the original pitch looking at a significant pendulum. I fell and managed to stay on the ledge..it hurt a bit. But less than the potential swing to the next gear...

It's about 5.5 from there but be sure to take care of your seconds! Long runners, thin cord for tie offs, and a good head for pucker will help. Jul 5, 2015