Elevation: 9,734 ft
GPS: 37.168, -118.571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 191,384 total · 2,674/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jul 30, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

Peaks north of Bishop Pass, and south of Piute Pass form two basic groups, Bishop Group and Evolution Group. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic.

The Bishop Group is accessible from the South Lake Trailhead, either to Treasure Lakes, or Bishop Pass. There are many popular campsites along both of these trails. Cross country travel is possible from the Treasure Lakes Trail to the Bishop Pass Trail. Both trails are short and easy. As stated this is a very popular area.

The Evolution Group is accessible from the trailhead at Lake Sabrina, which splits at Blue Lake to take you to either Mount Thompson (left) or (right) Mount Darwin, etc. The trails are a little longer but still reasonably moderate. The right branch also splits heading (left) either to Hungry Packer Lake for Picture Perfect Peak, Mount Haeckel, or over Alpine Col. or (right) to Mount Darwin and Blue Heaven Lake.

The north faces of Mounts Darwin and Mendel are accessible via Lamarck Col, which follows the Lamarck Lake Trail from North Lake, the heads south and west from there over the main crest - an excellent way into Darwin Canyon.

The west side of the Evolution Group can also be reached from Florence Lake, via a ferry and an extremely scenic hike south through Evolution Valley, this is a long approach.

Getting There

South Lake and Lake Sabrina
Both South Lake and Lake Sabrina are accessible from Hwy 168, which heads west out of Bishop. There's a ranger station (White Mountain) in Bishop which is a good location to pick up your permit the night before. The South Lake Road splits off left before the small community of Aspendell. Parking at both of these trailheads is tight, especially South Lake as Bishop Pass is very popular.

The South Lake trailhead serves two destinations, one to Bishop Pass and the other splits off right after about a mile and takes you to Treasure Lakes - which has to have the highest ratio in the Sierra for short hike/beautiful spot.

North Lake
The North Lake Trailhead splits off right, after passing through Aspendell. Plenty of parking usually at North Lake - although Piute Pass is also very popular in the summer months. Mentioned here because it is the trailhead for Lamarck Col.

Permits
For the eastern approaches are available here.

51 Total Climbs

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Location: 08 - Bishop Pass & Evolution Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 08 - Bishop Pass & Evolution

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
 9
North Face
Snow, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 20
West Chute
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 3
Via Tyee Lakes
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 12
Northwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 3
South Lake Peaks Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 Steep Snow
 12
North Couloir (Engram Couloir)
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Steep Snow
 14
Right Mendel Couloir
Ice, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Evolution Traverse
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
NE Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
It's a Trap!...ezoid
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Goode Earth
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
Edge of Time Arete
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Sky Pilot
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
North Buttress Variation.
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face Mt Darwin
 9
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
West Chute Cloudripper
 20
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Via Tyee Lakes Table Mountain
 3
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Northwest Ridge Mt Haeckel
 12
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
South Lake Peaks Traverse Hurd Peak
 3
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
North Couloir (Engram Couloir) Mt Gilbert
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Right Mendel Couloir Mt Mendel
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
North Buttress Mt Goode
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Evolution Traverse Mt Darwin
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
NE Buttress Picture Peak
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
It's a Trap!...ezoid Trapezoid Peak
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Goode Earth Mt Goode
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Edge of Time Arete Citadel
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Sky Pilot Mt Goode
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
North Buttress Variation. Mt Goode
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
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