Elevation: 4,521 ft
GPS: 36.039, -115.461 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,469 total · 207/month
Shared By: Craig Clarence on Mar 11, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This series of cliffs is located just outside the entrance to the Black Velvet Canyon, on the right-hand side as you look up the canyon from the parking lot. The best way to find the area is to locate the Desert Reality roof, which is a large triangular roof capping a thin strip of tan rock surrounded by darker desert varnish.

Most of the routes here are single-pitch, with 2-bolt rap anchors of varying quality. Many of the raps require 2 ropes. The cliff faces southwest so it's a good place to go if it's too cold to climb on the Black Velvet Wall.

The highlight of this area is the route Desert Reality, pictured on page 339 of the latest edition of the Swain guide. 15' or so of dead-horizontal roof, with a clean splitter going right out its center.

Getting There

Start at the Black Velvet parking lot, and walk up the trail a quarter mile or so until you can clearly identify the Desert Reality roof to the right of the mouth of Black Velvet canyon. You can see the roof from the parking lot if you know where to look, but it's a lot easier to identify after you walk up the trail about 20 minutes. The triangular-shaped Desert Reality roof caps a thin vertical strip of light-tan rock within an area of darker rock.

After identifying the roof, leave the Black Velvet trail and diagonal right across the desert on faint climbers' trails to the base of the crag underneath the roof.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Monument

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Two in the Busch
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Headlamp Mechanics
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Bone Saw
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Step Into The Squeezer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Handbone
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Brownline
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Clipper
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Lizard Locks
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Chinese Handcuffs
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Seduction Line
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
 21
Desert Gold
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two in the Busch
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Headlamp Mechanics
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bone Saw
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Step Into The Squeezer
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Handbone
 66
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Brownline
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Clipper
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Lizard Locks
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Chinese Handcuffs
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Seduction Line
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Desert Gold
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
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