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Routes in The Monument

Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pegasus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 4,521 ft
GPS: 36.039, -115.461 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 17,795 total, 106/month
Shared By: Craig Clarence on Mar 11, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

This series of cliffs is located just outside the entrance to the Black Velvet Canyon, on the right-hand side as you look up the canyon from the parking lot. The best way to find the area is to locate the Desert Reality roof, which is a large triangular roof capping a thin strip of tan rock surrounded by darker desert varnish.

Most of the routes here are single-pitch, with 2-bolt rap anchors of varying quality. Many of the raps require 2 ropes. The cliff faces southwest so it's a good place to go if it's too cold to climb on the Black Velvet Wall.

The highlight of this area is the route Desert Reality, pictured on page 339 of the latest edition of the Swain guide. 15' or so of dead-horizontal roof, with a clean splitter going right out its center.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Start at the Black Velvet parking lot, and walk up the trail a quarter mile or so until you can clearly identify the Desert Reality roof to the right of the mouth of Black Velvet canyon. You can see the roof from the parking lot if you know where to look, but it's a lot easier to identify after you walk up the trail about 20 minutes. The triangular-shaped Desert Reality roof caps a thin vertical strip of light-tan rock within an area of darker rock.

After identifying the roof, leave the Black Velvet trail and diagonal right across the desert on faint climbers' trails to the base of the crag underneath the roof.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Monument

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Step Into The Squeezer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Handbone
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mustang Cracks
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clipper
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lizard Locks
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Handcuffs
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seduction Line
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Desert Gold
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Step Into The Squeezer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Handbone 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mustang Cracks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Clipper 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Lizard Locks 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Chinese Handcuffs 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Seduction Line 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Desert Gold 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
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Photos

Josh Janes    
Step by Step Instructions for the Approach:

1) Hike the main BV trail for 10-15 minutes. Look for a smooth, black varnished boulder that is waist high and immediately off the trail on the right. When you're hiking in this boulder is almost completely obscured by a large cholla, but once past it and looking back the way you came it is very obvious. Turn off the trail towards the Monument here.

2) Aim for a brown varnished pyramid-shaped boulder in the distance that is about 10 feet tall. Once you pass this boulder continue to the edge of the wash.

3) When you look down into the wash you should see a huge, healthy cottonwood tree below you. The trail down into the wash heads left along the bank (reaching the bottom up-canyon from the cottonwood), then crosses the wash and heads up the other side.

4) Once on the other side, you will be at the eastern edge of the low point of a long ridge that leads up to the Monument just left of Desert Gold. Walk west (left) underneath the toe of this ridge to the western edge of its low point (the soil here is dark red) and follow a trail that leads back right and up onto the ridge.

5) Follow the ridge (usually on the left side, then later up the center, and finally on the right side) directly up to Desert Gold. Nov 15, 2017

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