The Monument Rock Climbing
Routes in The Monument
|Chinese Handcuffs T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Clipper T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cornucopia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Desert Gold T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13|
|Handbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lizard Locks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Madcap Laughs, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Mustang Cracks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pegasus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Seduction Line T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Step Into The Squeezer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|West Edge Lane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|GPS:||36.039, -115.461 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||17,795 total, 106/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Clarence on Mar 11, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionThis series of cliffs is located just outside the entrance to the Black Velvet Canyon, on the right-hand side as you look up the canyon from the parking lot. The best way to find the area is to locate the Desert Reality roof, which is a large triangular roof capping a thin strip of tan rock surrounded by darker desert varnish.
Most of the routes here are single-pitch, with 2-bolt rap anchors of varying quality. Many of the raps require 2 ropes. The cliff faces southwest so it's a good place to go if it's too cold to climb on the Black Velvet Wall.
The highlight of this area is the route Desert Reality, pictured on page 339 of the latest edition of the Swain guide. 15' or so of dead-horizontal roof, with a clean splitter going right out its center.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereStart at the Black Velvet parking lot, and walk up the trail a quarter mile or so until you can clearly identify the Desert Reality roof to the right of the mouth of Black Velvet canyon. You can see the roof from the parking lot if you know where to look, but it's a lot easier to identify after you walk up the trail about 20 minutes. The triangular-shaped Desert Reality roof caps a thin vertical strip of light-tan rock within an area of darker rock.
After identifying the roof, leave the Black Velvet trail and diagonal right across the desert on faint climbers' trails to the base of the crag underneath the roof.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Monument
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season