Elevation: 13,270 ft
GPS: 37.275, -118.677 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,295,843 total · 12,712/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jan 29, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue:
  • *NATIONAL FORESTS IN THIS AREA MAY BE CLOSED**
Details

Description

John Muir's Range of Light.

Deep forested valleys, pristine lakes, beautiful meadows, acres of suncups, huge walls and domes, jagged ridges leading up to windswept nameless summits; all these await you.

Some of the finest granite, most beautiful mountains, and stable weather make the High Sierra a special place for climbers.

Though there are some long monolithic faces (like Charlotte Dome), the majority of climbing is on high altitude mountain walls which follow crack systems. Frequent ledges make for comfy belays. Routes frequently wander a bit, but pro is usually not a problem, and long slings can often be used to tie off a feature and keep the drag down. Of course like all mountain big walls, there are loose blocks, boulders, and rocks on the ledges, so take care with the ropes.

Despite the crowds in a few places, the dreaded permit system means the climbs are uncrowded, the camping is pleasant, and you feel like you've gotten away from it all and found some true wilderness.

In fact some parts of this range are incredibly far from the madding crowd, seek these places out, they are ancient and sacred places. For every crowded classic (a result of the "select" books?) there are a hundred empty just as classic routes.

Some notes about the weather/conditions:-

May-June: Approach to climbs may require taking crampons and ice-axe. Snow can provide a good highway there and back. May and June provide long daylight hours. Weather can be unstable with late arriving winter storms. Cold to cool.

July-Early Aug: Not so much snow, unless it's a big snow year. Suncups begin to develop which can hamper approaches. Still lots of daylight. Stable weather. Mosquitos. Warm.

Mid August - Mid September. No snow, more scree. Late afternoon thunderstorms. Hours getting shorter. Warm to cool.

Mid September - Late October: First winter snow. Less and less hours of daylight. October can be nice though, but not for long climbs. Cool to cold.

Interesting reading from the Ranger Reports.

Getting There

The High Sierra runs from the Sawtooth Range in the north, south to the Whitney Group, and covers an area bigger than the entire European Alps - most of it wilderness.

The easiest access is from Highway 395 on the east side, where several roads (thanks FDR) terminate at 7,000-10,000 foot trailheads within a few miles of the peaks, there are also options to cross high passes to access west country. There are also approaches from the west side, they are very beautiful and they tend to be longer and less steep, these are more useful for peaks or crags on the west side.

From the bay area, Highway 120 through Yosemite is the fastest route, even if you're going all the way to Whitney. If you leave after work, you can stop in Tuolumne Meadows (8,800 ft) or one of the Forest Service campgrounds just beyond the park (from 7,000-9,000 feet, and a bit cheaper). All these campgrounds will be full on summer weekends starting in July, but you can reserve sites in Tuolumne Meadows.

From Los Angeles take Highway 14 to 395 for the east side approaches. For the west side approaches take Freeway 5 then Highway 99.

If you're from out of town, you might find a good deal flying to Reno and renting a car.

Most people backpack and camp before climbing a specific route, and that requires an permit on almost all trailheads. Some are pretty hard to get, and you'll need to plan months ahead. A certain number are available on a first-come first-served basis on the day of the hike, if you don't mind starting late.

Permits
For the Inyo and Hwy 395 approaches go here.
For the Sequoia/Kings Canyon backcountry approaches go here.
For Yosemite backcountry approaches go here.

NOTE: There are a small amount of permits available on a first-come, first-served basis at the applicable Ranger Stations. Also, be aware that east side approach permits which end camping in either SEKI or Yosemite will require pick up the morning of the hike - not an option for an early start. East side permits ending in Inyo National Forest can be picked up the night before by calling (760) 873-2483.

The permit info here supersedes any info at the peak level.

Areas are listed from North to South (01 to 14)

Bears and Food Storage
Regulations for food storage differ by area, Inyo National Forest (majority of east side approaches) allows use of the Ursack which is a good solution for people not wanting to tote a heavy bear canister. Be aware that once you cross over the main crest you may be in a National Park, with different regulations. Check with SEKI or Yosemite NPS before using the Ursack there.

Secure food storage (canister or Ursack) is REQUIRED in Bishop Pass, Duck Pass/Purple Lake Area, Cottonwood Lakes Basin, Mammoth Lakes/Rush Creek, Fish Creek Area, Little Lakes Valley, Kearsarge Pass Area, Whitney Area. Everywhere else in Inyo it is RECOMMENDED.

Resources

Norwegian Xplorer has some very good videos of backpacking in various parts of the High Sierra. Atmospheric and sublime.

393 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at High Sierra

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 108
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 127
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 99
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 380
East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 184
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 202
South Face
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 174
North Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 163
Fishhook ArĂȘte
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
 71
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 135
Mithril Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 119
Sun Ribbon Arete
Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 73
Direct North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 311
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil")
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 290
Positive Vibrations
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 103
Sunspot Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Arete 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell
 108
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Northeast Ridge 06 - Little Lak… > Bear Creek Spire
 127
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
North Ridge 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
 99
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
East Buttress 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Whitney
 380
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
East Face 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Whitney
 184
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
South Face 12 - Kearsarge… > Charlotte Dome
 202
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
North Arete 06 - Little Lak… > Bear Creek Spire
 174
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Fishhook ArĂȘte 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell
 163
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse 09 - Palisades… > Thunderbolt Peak
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Mithril Dihedral 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell
 135
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Sun Ribbon Arete 09 - Palisades… > Temple Crag
 119
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
Direct North Buttress 07 - Humphreys… > Merriam Peak
 73
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil") 02 - The Sawtoo… > Incredible Hulk
 311
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Positive Vibrations 02 - The Sawtoo… > Incredible Hulk
 290
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Sunspot Dihedral 02 - The Sawtoo… > Incredible Hulk
 103
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in High Sierra »

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