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Routes in Mt. Whitney
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Cardiovascular Seizure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Direct East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Book, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hairline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+ |
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Hairline Free T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Happy Cowboy (Whitney Edge Traverse) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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If At First… T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Wing Extremist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mount Whitney Trail, The Mod. Snow |
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Mountaineer's Route, The 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Our Own Devices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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SouthWest Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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SouthWest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Robert Underhill, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, Norman Clyde 8/1931. |
| Page Views: | 81,660 total · 349/month |
| Shared By: | ClimbandMine on Jan 30, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
From Iceberg Lake, scramble up to the notch just above the First Tower. Gear up.
Make the Tower Traverse across the south face of the Second Tower, and climb a short chimney (5.4-5.5) to the first belay.
Scramble or simul climb up three pitches of 4th - easy 5th to the top of the Washboard. Climb left up and over a tower/chimney (5.2-5.5) to a large ledge, and traverse to the base of the Fresh Air Traverse.
The Fresh Air Traverse pitch (5.5) climbs easy ground up then left to three fixed pitons. Enter and belay in a chimney. The traverse is exposed and fun. From the ledge, do not traverse directly left. Climb up blocky ground first.
Once in the chimney, climb up the Grand Staircase for 3 pitches, to the 5.6-5.7 offwidth pitch(es). This is the crux, then its easy ground up and right to the summit.
Be quick, efficient, and be careful of your rope - watch rockfall, for your team and others.
Make the Tower Traverse across the south face of the Second Tower, and climb a short chimney (5.4-5.5) to the first belay.
Scramble or simul climb up three pitches of 4th - easy 5th to the top of the Washboard. Climb left up and over a tower/chimney (5.2-5.5) to a large ledge, and traverse to the base of the Fresh Air Traverse.
The Fresh Air Traverse pitch (5.5) climbs easy ground up then left to three fixed pitons. Enter and belay in a chimney. The traverse is exposed and fun. From the ledge, do not traverse directly left. Climb up blocky ground first.
Once in the chimney, climb up the Grand Staircase for 3 pitches, to the 5.6-5.7 offwidth pitch(es). This is the crux, then its easy ground up and right to the summit.
Be quick, efficient, and be careful of your rope - watch rockfall, for your team and others.
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