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Routes in Mt. Whitney

Cardiovascular Seizure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
East Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+
Happy Cowboy (Whitney edge traverse) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Left Wing Extremist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mount Whitney Trail, The
Mountaineer's Route, The 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
SouthWest Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SouthWest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,557 total, 48/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jul 14, 2008 with updates
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

This worthwhile route climbs the right most dihedral system.

P1: varied cracks 5.8,
P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a.
P3: unusual double cracks at 90 degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear,
P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9
P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8
P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b.

Descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to Whitney-Russell col.

Location

Between the Mountaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak called "Iceberg Spire".

Protection

Nuts plus cams doubles to #2 Camalot plus 1 #3.

Photos

Dave Stimson
Pincher Creek
 
Dave Stimson   Pincher Creek
 
A little scaly, but a phenomenal line and some really stellar crack climbing! Give the spectators down at Iceberg something to watch other than the usual Butt-Face parties.

I don't think the corner at 5.9 is a viable alternative to the crux pitch. The main corner looked pretty loose and bottoming... maybe 5.9 R/X. Unless there was another corner to the right...

The descent beta wasn't very helpful. We went to the north side and did some exposed 4th/low 5th down climbing to a large ledge (about a half pitch). We were able to link together more ledges, but I think a hard traverse to the west on the big ledge would take you right out to a scree/talus slope. There was also a new rap station on the top of the "Iceberg Spire" that looked like it dropped you onto the south side to ledges and then worked down into a gully feature. Not sure about the details on this... Sep 6, 2016
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
We had hoped we were embarking on a FA but discovered a few rusty pitons along the way. Oct 30, 2014
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though. Oct 10, 2014
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
Crux is 5.11- but a great line, though a bit grungy it's worth it, espectially the last airy pitch.
S Jul 15, 2008