Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,653 total · 50/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jul 14, 2008 with improvements by Neil Kauffman
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

This worthwhile route climbs the right most dihedral system.

P1: varied cracks 5.8,
P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a.
P3: unusual double cracks at 90 degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear,
P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9
P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8
P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b.

Descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to Whitney-Russell col.

Location

Between the Mountaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak called "Iceberg Spire".

Protection

Nuts plus cams doubles to #2 Camalot plus 1 #3.

Photos