Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Keith Leaman 1971 solo
Page Views: 4,139 total · 60/month
Shared By: Keith Leaman on Apr 5, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.

Location

Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.

Protection

I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.

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