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North Face

5.8, Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Keith Leaman 1971 solo
California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Whitney
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Description

The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.

Location

Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.

Protection

I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mt. Whitney North Face, hammerless solo FA 5.8 1971
[Hide Photo] Mt. Whitney North Face, hammerless solo FA 5.8 1971
1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the snow and ice covered ledges, my footprints are visible descending to the point where I unroped above the 5th class pitches, and began free soloing the remainder of the route.
[Hide Photo] 1971 Hammerless FA North Face. Looking down the snow and ice covered ledges, my footprints are visible descending to the point where I unroped above the 5th class pitches, and began free soloing th…
Here's a better view of the route. After some 3rd/4th class climbing above the Mountaineer Route, I roped up at the small ledge and followed the obvious crack system.
[Hide Photo] Here's a better view of the route. After some 3rd/4th class climbing above the Mountaineer Route, I roped up at the small ledge and followed the obvious crack system.
1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the East Buttress, this is approximately where I abandoned plans to solo the East Face and traversed to the north side in favor of a more adventurous route.
[Hide Photo] 1971 Hammerless FA 5.8 North Face. Taken from the East Buttress, this is approximately where I abandoned plans to solo the East Face and traversed to the north side in favor of a more adventurous r…