Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Brinton, Glen Dawson, Richard Jones, Howard Koster, Muir Dawson, September 1937
Page Views: 111,670 total · 534/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jan 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details


The premier moderate route in the Whitney Area.

Day 1 Hike to Iceberg Lake. Day 2 Do climb. Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.

Eleven fairly consistent pitches on excellent rock. The route starts up a scree slope where you head to left-facing corner on the right side of the "second tower", which is directly on the east buttress.

It's pretty easy to stay on route - don't stray far from the true buttress. If it's obviously harder than 5.7, look around and get back on route.

p1. Easy climbing up the corner. 5.5-5.6
p2. Nice face climbing. 5.6-5.7.
p3-5. wander around the buttress taking whatever line looks best. Head for the right side of "the peewee" - a huge roof/block that looks rather ominous. 4th-5.6
p6. up the right side of the peewee. usually dark and cold. Feels good to get on top of it. 5.6
p7-11. cracks and blocks that generally trend left. The more left you go, the sooner you'll hit a talus field and start walking to the top. Climbing stays easy right on the buttress, with a few boulder problems to overcome.

Top out, dazzle the crowd that hiked up the Whitney Trail and listen to their cell phone calls (golly gee honey - you won't believe where I'm calling from...).


I brought about 5 cams, up to a #2 Camalot. 2 full sets of nuts, and lots of long slings. Lots of natural anchors and ledges.


Descend the Mountaineers Route.