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Routes in Mt. Whitney
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Cardiovascular Seizure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Direct East Face T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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East Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Book, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hairline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+ |
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Happy Cowboy (Whitney Edge Traverse) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Left Wing Extremist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mount Whitney Trail, The Mod. Snow |
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Mountaineer's Route, The 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Our Own Devices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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SouthWest Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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SouthWest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bob Brinton, Glen Dawson, Richard Jones, Howard Koster, Muir Dawson, September 1937 |
| Page Views: | 111,670 total · 534/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jan 23, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
The premier moderate route in the Whitney Area.
Day 1 Hike to Iceberg Lake. Day 2 Do climb. Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.
Eleven fairly consistent pitches on excellent rock. The route starts up a scree slope where you head to left-facing corner on the right side of the "second tower", which is directly on the east buttress.
It's pretty easy to stay on route - don't stray far from the true buttress. If it's obviously harder than 5.7, look around and get back on route.
p1. Easy climbing up the corner. 5.5-5.6
p2. Nice face climbing. 5.6-5.7.
p3-5. wander around the buttress taking whatever line looks best. Head for the right side of "the peewee" - a huge roof/block that looks rather ominous. 4th-5.6
p6. up the right side of the peewee. usually dark and cold. Feels good to get on top of it. 5.6
p7-11. cracks and blocks that generally trend left. The more left you go, the sooner you'll hit a talus field and start walking to the top. Climbing stays easy right on the buttress, with a few boulder problems to overcome.
Top out, dazzle the crowd that hiked up the Whitney Trail and listen to their cell phone calls (golly gee honey - you won't believe where I'm calling from...).
Day 1 Hike to Iceberg Lake. Day 2 Do climb. Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.
Eleven fairly consistent pitches on excellent rock. The route starts up a scree slope where you head to left-facing corner on the right side of the "second tower", which is directly on the east buttress.
It's pretty easy to stay on route - don't stray far from the true buttress. If it's obviously harder than 5.7, look around and get back on route.
p1. Easy climbing up the corner. 5.5-5.6
p2. Nice face climbing. 5.6-5.7.
p3-5. wander around the buttress taking whatever line looks best. Head for the right side of "the peewee" - a huge roof/block that looks rather ominous. 4th-5.6
p6. up the right side of the peewee. usually dark and cold. Feels good to get on top of it. 5.6
p7-11. cracks and blocks that generally trend left. The more left you go, the sooner you'll hit a talus field and start walking to the top. Climbing stays easy right on the buttress, with a few boulder problems to overcome.
Top out, dazzle the crowd that hiked up the Whitney Trail and listen to their cell phone calls (golly gee honey - you won't believe where I'm calling from...).
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