Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Galen Rowell and David Wilson (1991)
Page Views: 3,034 total · 63/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details


Proud route up a monster, iconic face that no one seems to climb. Maybe not as classic as Hairline, but a good option for a quick, free way up the east face. This line holds a notorious splitter offwidth on the right face of a beautiful dihedral halfway up.

3 moderate pitches lead to a belay behind an obvious giant flake.

Next pitch is the crux. Reasonable 11a fingers in a corner leads to a ledge out left where you can belay or keep going. The crack off of this ledge was ridiculously hard for a few moves and seemed impossible with the giant bush growing out of it. Get past this and keep going up some nice splitters to a traverse back out right and a belay.

One more pitch up some steep and scary quartz leads to a marginal belay below the offwidth.

Offwidth is long and sustained. You'd expect, being the high sierra and all, you could mostly cheat the thing. This is true to an extent, but it's also real deal in parts. Overall, I'd say it's not too soft (imho) like David says on supertopo . but maybe not 10+ either, at least compared to something like generator. but that's probably not a fair comparison 

After some more moderate pitches we followed the east face route to the top.


East face of Whitney, starts left of the gigantic corner that is the 'direct east face.'


doubles with at least single 4,5,6