Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Galen Rowell and David Wilson (1991)
Page Views: 730 total · 54/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Proud route up a monster, iconic face that no one seems to climb. This line holds a notorious splitter offwidth on the right face of a beautiful dihedral halfway up.

3 moderate pitches lead to a belay behind an obvious giant flake.

Next pitch is the crux. Reasonable 11a fingers in a corner leads to a ledge out left where you can belay or keep going. The crack off of this ledge was ridiculously hard for a few moves and seemed impossible with the giant bush growing out of it. Get past this and keep going up some nice splitters to a traverse back out right and a belay.

One more pitch up some steep and scary quartz leads to a marginal belay below the offwidth.

Offwidth is long and sustained. You'd expect, being the high sierra and all, you could mostly cheat the thing. This is true to an extent, but it's also real deal in parts. Overall, I'd say it's not too soft (imho) like David says on supertopo . but probably not 10+ either..

After some more moderate pitches we followed the east face route to the top.

Location

East face of Whitney, starts left of the gigantic corner that is the 'direct east face.'

Protection

doubles with at least single 4,5,6

Photos

Scott Sinner
Bishop, CA
Scott Sinner   Bishop, CA
Do you remember more about the quartz pitch? I'm thinking about a late winter/spring ascent and wondering about climbing this pitch in lightweight mountain boots if I have to. Does it take good gear to aid through or at least prevent a big dangerous fall, or is it like a runout 20-30' slippery quartz band? Mar 4, 2018
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11
hmm yeah don't remember too much, other than it was pretty scary due to lack of pro and/or just chossy rock. so yeah, pretty runout either way. if even possible, not sure I'd want to aid off that stuff.. yikes.. it's steep but fairly positive (and yes, slippery) holds so I would think mountain boots would be ok but I'd probably just wear socks and shoes. if you're still in the sun, then surely it'll be warm enough to climb in shoes eh?

if you're looking for a full on winter time aid affair, have you thought about hairline? Mar 7, 2018
Scott Sinner
Bishop, CA
Scott Sinner   Bishop, CA
Thanks for the reply Brian. Shoes and socks would be ideal and hopefully not a full on aid climb! Mar 10, 2018