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Routes in Mt. Whitney

Cardiovascular Seizure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
East Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hairline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+
Happy Cowboy (Whitney edge traverse) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Left Wing Extremist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mount Whitney Trail, The Mod. Snow
Mountaineer's Route, The 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
SouthWest Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
SouthWest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 2000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bruce Bindner & Alex Schmauss 1987
Page Views: 892 total · 91/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Aug 31, 2017 with updates from old5ten
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Hairline tackles the line of highest resistance up the steepest portion of Mt Whitney's full East Face. Brutus of Wyde claimed this was his "proudest first ascent", but even with these grand accolades the route has seen little traffic since the late 80's FA. The logistics of technical big-walling at 14,000' and the heavy aid rack has likely kept many potential suitors at bay. The topo does an excellent job of describing the route, so I will keep things minimal to preserve the adventure. 2 pitches of free climbing lead to the crux of the route - 3 pitches of dramatically and continuously overhanging clean aid. Above P5, sustained and quality crack climbing are the name of the game. The route crosses the standard East Face line at the end of P9, and there is some rockfall hazard below that point from parties above. The route was rebolted by the ASCA in 2004 during the second ascent. Additional info here - summitpost.org/mt-whitney-h…

Location [Suggest Change]

Steepest, blankest portion of Whitney's full East Face. Descend the Mountaineers Route back to your camp below.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Double cams from tiny to 3", single 4-6". Set of stoppers including micros, 1 each talon, beak, skyhook and camhook.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d C2+
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d C2+
brutus of wYde..., rip Mar 27, 2018

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