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Areas in 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks

Aiguille Extra 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Cirque Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Day Needle (aka Crooks Peak) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Impala, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Keeler Needle 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Lone Pine Peak 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 1 / 9 / 9
Mt Carillon 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Mt. Barnard East Peak (aka Peak 13,680 +) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Mt. Hitchcock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Mt. Irvine 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Mt. Langley 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Mt. Muir 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Mt. Russell 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 8
Mt. Whitney 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 11 / 11
Peak 3986 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Pinnacle Ridge 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Springbok, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 2
Stonehouse Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Thor Peak 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Tuttle Obelisk 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
z. Ski mountaineering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

The Mount Whitney Massif hosts the highest point above sea level in the lower 48 states. This trophy status just adds to its mystique and popularity . Especially on weekends during the gentle months of summer, crowds of people ascend its hut-capped summit plateau, and even more fall along the trailside or are turned back, unprepared or simply unlucky.

To protect this busy season circus from becoming a stop and go human traffic jam, the Inyo National Forest's solution has been to create the Mount Whitney Zone. Access to this area during the peak season is controlled by strict limits on single day visitors, and even fewer overnight backpackers. Advance reservations are in much higher demand than are available, so now a lottery decides who will attempt Whitney and its near neighbors (though a small number are available for walk in visitors at the ranger station in Lone Pine).

Single day visits are free and unrestricted from Whitney Portal to Lower Boy Scout Lake, Lone Pine Lake, and via Meysan Lake to Mounts Irvine and Mallory. All crags described on the Whitney Portal page are also free to use.

Day use or overnight permits are required elsewhere in the Zone. Everything in the Lone Pine Creek drainage at slightly higher elevation than the above mentioned free sites has its access controlled.

Backpackers from further trail heads have fewer restrictions on visiting and leaving from the interior sides of Whitney, Russell and their neighbors.

Suggested reading:

Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations page

The Whitney Portal Store website.

Recon: The Whitney Massif is a featured article from the 2014 American Alpine Journal with drool-inducing photos and topos.

Permits for North Fork
Can be reserved here , you'll need a username and password, but it's well worth it, you can select dates ahead of time, see what's available and plan accordingly, then purchase the permits which you can pick up at the visitor's center a few miles south of Lone Pine.

North Fork reservations page.

Getting There

From highway 395 in Lone Pine, take Whitney Portal Road west straight to its end at its namesake.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
 147
The Mountaineer's Route
Snow, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 89
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 11
East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 72
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 304
East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 160
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
Fishhook ArĂȘte
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 99
Mithril Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
East Face
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Star Trekkin'
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Bloody Corner
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Western Front
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Harding Route
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Michael Strassman Memorial Route
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
 20
Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route
Trad, Aid, Alpine 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Mountaineer's Route Mt. Whitney
 147
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
East Arete Mt. Russell
 89
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
East Arete - Mt. Carl Heller Mt Carl Heller and Tu…
 11
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Lone Pine Peak
 72
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
East Buttress Mt. Whitney
 304
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
East Face Mt. Whitney
 160
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Fishhook ArĂȘte Mt. Russell
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Mithril Dihedral Mt. Russell
 99
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
East Face Aiguille Extra
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Star Trekkin' Mt. Russell
 24
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Bloody Corner Mt. Russell
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Western Front Mt. Russell
 24
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Harding Route Keeler Needle
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Michael Strassman Memorial… Lone Pine Peak
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Bastille Buttress - Beckey… Lone Pine Peak
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 15 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks »

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