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Mithril Dihedral
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.9 from 187
votes
Routes in Mt. Russell
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Bloody Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Crossing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Fishhook Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mithril Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Slope T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Star Trekkin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Western Front T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett & Alan Roberts, July 1976 |
| Page Views: | 66,769 total · 292/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Mar 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
Day 1 From Whitney Portal, hike up North Fork to camp at Iceberg Lake.
Day 2 Do climb.
Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.
A magnificent climb on good rock, with excellent protection.
Scramble up to ledges.
Below is how we did it years ago - before real beta, we just knew it had been climbed and that was it. See comments for modern beta.
P1 5.7 Follow cracks up to a ledge.
P2 5.7 Better rock leads up along a knobby crack to a ramp below the corner proper.
P1 and P2 can be combined with a 70m rope
P3 5.9 A short pitch. Up the corner steeply to belay in a widening section.
P4 5.9 Up the steepest part of the corner until the angle relents.
P3 and P4 are best combined into one pitch.
P5 5.9 The corner presents one last obstacle, a steep lieback to exit right onto a ledge.
P6 Hundreds of feet of CL4 lead to one of the best summits anywhere.
Day 2 Do climb.
Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.
A magnificent climb on good rock, with excellent protection.
Scramble up to ledges.
Below is how we did it years ago - before real beta, we just knew it had been climbed and that was it. See comments for modern beta.
P1 5.7 Follow cracks up to a ledge.
P2 5.7 Better rock leads up along a knobby crack to a ramp below the corner proper.
P1 and P2 can be combined with a 70m rope
P3 5.9 A short pitch. Up the corner steeply to belay in a widening section.
P4 5.9 Up the steepest part of the corner until the angle relents.
P3 and P4 are best combined into one pitch.
P5 5.9 The corner presents one last obstacle, a steep lieback to exit right onto a ledge.
P6 Hundreds of feet of CL4 lead to one of the best summits anywhere.
Location
Climbs the obvious huge dihedral left of Fishhook Arete. Descend South Gully between West and East Peaks.
Photos
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