Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alan Bartlett & Alan Roberts, July 1976
Page Views: 65,776 total · 301/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

173 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Day 1 From Whitney Portal, hike up North Fork to camp at Iceberg Lake.

Day 2 Do climb.

Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.

A magnificent climb on good rock, with excellent protection.

Scramble up to ledges.

Below is how we did it years ago - before real beta, we just knew it had been climbed and that was it. See comments for modern beta.

P1 5.7 Follow cracks up to a ledge.

P2 5.7 Better rock leads up along a knobby crack to a ramp below the corner proper.

P1 and P2 can be combined with a 70m rope

P3 5.9 A short pitch. Up the corner steeply to belay in a widening section.

P4 5.9 Up the steepest part of the corner until the angle relents.

P3 and P4 are best combined into one pitch.

P5 5.9 The corner presents one last obstacle, a steep lieback to exit right onto a ledge.

P6 Hundreds of feet of CL4 lead to one of the best summits anywhere.

Location Suggest change

Climbs the obvious huge dihedral left of Fishhook Arete. Descend South Gully between West and East Peaks.

Protection Suggest change

Full rack. 70m rope, see comments below.