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Routes in Peak 3986

Milktoast Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Baron Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

Peak 3986 - AKA Peak 12,960+ or Peak 13,019 (depending on map) - has a massive and inspiring south face; home to a handful of technical routes including the original South Face (V 5.9 A2, Rowell-Jones-Faint 1970), the Kearney Route (V 5.9 A2, Kearney-Foster-Nelson 1976), the Zig-Zag Dihedral (IV 5.9+, Bindner-Brennan 1995), the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10R, Moser-Ness 2012), the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8, Bindner-Harris 1997), and the Red Baron Tower (III 5.10, Beckey-Hagen 1972). The East Ridge (cl2-3) and West Ridge (cl4) both provide easier access to the summit. Most of the climbing exists on the far eastern side of the south face, quite a ways from the true summit, and as a result the routes tend to end on the plateau rather than continuing to the top.
Access limited from May to October every year Details

Getting There

Approach as for the south face of Lone Pine Peak. From Lone Pine, head west on Whitney Portal Road. Turn left at Horseshoe Meadows road and follow to Granite View Drive. Turn right on Granite View Drive, past a house and right at the fork past the house. Take the dirt road up at far as you can get (depending on clearance). The trail begins at the end of the road. Follow the trail one mile to the Stonehouse, and then follow the use trail just below the Stonehouse up the valley, staying high until you reach the steeper moraine. Follow cairns up through the boulder field past the south face of LPP and continue up to a nice flat forested camping area with a seasonal stream flowing nearby, crossing the creek where the south gully enters the canyon. Allow 4 hours to reach the camp. From here, another 45 min to 1 hour to reach the base of the routes.

2 Total Climbs

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