Peak 3986 Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.552, -118.237 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||1,170 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Jun 6, 2016|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpagefs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Peak 3986 - AKA Peak 12,960+ or Peak 13,019 (depending on map) - has a massive and inspiring south face; home to a handful of technical routes including the original South Face (V 5.9 A2, Rowell-Jones-Faint 1970), the Kearney Route (V 5.9 A2, Kearney-Foster-Nelson 1976), the Zig-Zag Dihedral (IV 5.9+, Bindner-Brennan 1995), the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10R, Moser-Ness 2012), the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8, Bindner-Harris 1997), and the Red Baron Tower (III 5.10, Beckey-Hagen 1972). The East Ridge (cl2-3) and West Ridge (cl4) both provide easier access to the summit. Most of the climbing exists on the far eastern side of the south face, quite a ways from the true summit, and as a result the routes tend to end on the plateau rather than continuing to the top.
Approach as for the south face of Lone Pine Peak. From Lone Pine, head west on Whitney Portal Road. Turn left at Horseshoe Meadows road and follow to Granite View Drive. Turn right on Granite View Drive, past a house and right at the fork past the house. Take the dirt road up at far as you can get (depending on clearance). The trail begins at the end of the road. Follow the trail one mile to the Stonehouse, and then follow the use trail just below the Stonehouse up the valley, staying high until you reach the steeper moraine. Follow cairns up through the boulder field past the south face of LPP and continue up to a nice flat forested camping area with a seasonal stream flowing nearby, crossing the creek where the south gully enters the canyon. Allow 4 hours to reach the camp. From here, another 45 min to 1 hour to reach the base of the routes.
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