Red Baron Tower
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Peak 3986
|Milktoast Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red Baron Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Fred Beckey & Barry Hagen 1972, FFA Bruce Bindner & Pat Brennan 1996|
|Page Views:||288 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Jun 6, 2016|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access limited from May to October every year Details
DescriptionA fabulous backcountry route leading to an obscure summit, deep in the North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Listed as an "alternate route" to the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8) in Moynier & Fiddlers Sierra Classics book, this route has much greater visual appeal than the latter, following a perfectly square-cut dihedral system near the right edge of the tower. Highly featured rock yields a combination of crack-and-face climbing on nearly every pitch. Fred had an eye for a good line, and this one wont disappoint. An error in the topo - which describes the crux pitch as "R-rated" - has undoubtedly deterred parties from attempting this route. It protects well through the crux sections.
P0) A 5.easy scramble up the right side of the slabby wall guarding the base leads to a long leftward traverse on a big ledge to the start of the route.
P1) Up the chimney, stepping left to belay on a ledge below the massive roofs. 5.8 100'
P2) Traverse out left underneath the big roofs, then head up the beautiful RF corner to a small stance atop a flake on the left side. 5.9+ 160'
P3) Continue up the sweet corner, stepping right (crux) into another crack when things start to get thin and hard. Pass a giant detached block and belay at a nice stance above. 5.10 165'
P4) Climb fantastic face features on the right wall of the now brushy corner, occasionally stepping left to place protection. Belay on a stance inside a short chimney or at another ledge 15' above. 5.8R 165-180'
P5) Another RF corner, hands & fists, leading to a big sandy platform. 5.9 150'
P6) More goodness. RF corner with a few small roofs to the top of the pillar. 5.8+ 100'
P7) A short shallow & flared crack leads to a long traverse right on a ledge, up a nice crack, then a long traverse back left on a ledge to the base of the final RF corner. 5.8 100'
P8) A RF corner with some bushes and deteriorating rock leads to the awesome summit block.