Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Fred Beckey & Barry Hagen 1972, FFA Bruce Bindner & Pat Brennan 1996 |
Page Views: | 1,356 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Richard Shore on Jun 6, 2016 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
A fabulous backcountry route leading to an obscure summit, deep in the North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Listed as an "alternate route" to the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8) in Moynier & Fiddlers Sierra Classics book, this route has much greater visual appeal than the latter, following a perfectly square-cut dihedral system near the right edge of the tower. Highly featured rock yields a combination of crack-and-face climbing on nearly every pitch. Fred had an eye for a good line, and this one wont disappoint. An error in the topo - which describes the crux pitch as "R-rated" - has undoubtedly deterred parties from attempting this route. It protects well through the crux sections.
P0) A 5.easy scramble up the right side of the slabby wall guarding the base leads to a long leftward traverse on a big ledge to the start of the route.
P1) Up the chimney, stepping left to belay on a ledge below the massive roofs. 5.8 100'
P2) Traverse out left underneath the big roofs, then head up the beautiful RF corner to a small stance atop a flake on the left side. 5.9+ 160'
P3) Continue up the sweet corner, stepping right (crux) into another crack when things start to get thin and hard. Pass a giant detached block and belay at a nice stance above. 5.10 165'
P4) Climb fantastic face features on the right wall of the now brushy corner, occasionally stepping left to place protection. Belay on a stance inside a short chimney or at another ledge 15' above. 5.8R 165-180'
P5) Another RF corner, hands & fists, leading to a big sandy platform. 5.9 150'
P6) More goodness. RF corner with a few small roofs to the top of the pillar. 5.8+ 100'
P7) A short shallow & flared crack leads to a long traverse right on a ledge, up a nice crack, then a long traverse back left on a ledge to the base of the final RF corner. 5.8 100'
P8) A RF corner with some bushes and deteriorating rock leads to the awesome summit block.
P0) A 5.easy scramble up the right side of the slabby wall guarding the base leads to a long leftward traverse on a big ledge to the start of the route.
P1) Up the chimney, stepping left to belay on a ledge below the massive roofs. 5.8 100'
P2) Traverse out left underneath the big roofs, then head up the beautiful RF corner to a small stance atop a flake on the left side. 5.9+ 160'
P3) Continue up the sweet corner, stepping right (crux) into another crack when things start to get thin and hard. Pass a giant detached block and belay at a nice stance above. 5.10 165'
P4) Climb fantastic face features on the right wall of the now brushy corner, occasionally stepping left to place protection. Belay on a stance inside a short chimney or at another ledge 15' above. 5.8R 165-180'
P5) Another RF corner, hands & fists, leading to a big sandy platform. 5.9 150'
P6) More goodness. RF corner with a few small roofs to the top of the pillar. 5.8+ 100'
P7) A short shallow & flared crack leads to a long traverse right on a ledge, up a nice crack, then a long traverse back left on a ledge to the base of the final RF corner. 5.8 100'
P8) A RF corner with some bushes and deteriorating rock leads to the awesome summit block.
1 Comment