Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Peak 3986

California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney & Surrou…
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description

Peak 3986 - AKA Peak 12,960+ or Peak 13,019 (depending on map) - has a massive and inspiring south face; home to a handful of technical routes including the original South Face (V 5.9 A2, Rowell-Jones-Faint 1970), the Kearney Route (V 5.9 A2, Kearney-Foster-Nelson 1976), the Zig-Zag Dihedral (IV 5.9+, Bindner-Brennan 1995), the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10R, Moser-Ness 2012), the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8, Bindner-Harris 1997), and the Red Baron Tower (III 5.10, Beckey-Hagen 1972). The East Ridge (cl2-3) and West Ridge (cl4) both provide easier access to the summit. Most of the climbing exists on the far eastern side of the south face, quite a ways from the true summit, and as a result the routes tend to end on the plateau rather than continuing to the top.

Getting There

Approach as for the south face of Lone Pine Peak. From Lone Pine, head west on Whitney Portal Road. Turn left at Horseshoe Meadows road and follow to Granite View Drive. Turn right on Granite View Drive, past a house and right at the fork past the house. Take the dirt road up at far as you can get (depending on clearance). The trail begins at the end of the road. Follow the trail one mile to the Stonehouse, and then follow the use trail just below the Stonehouse up the valley, staying high until you reach the steeper moraine. Follow cairns up through the boulder field past the south face of LPP and continue up to a nice flat forested camping area with a seasonal stream flowing nearby, crossing the creek where the south gully enters the canyon. Allow 4 hours to reach the camp. From here, another 45 min to 1 hour to reach the base of the routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Milktoast Chimney
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Red Baron Tower
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-2
 1
South Face
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Milktoast Chimney
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Red Baron Tower
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
South Face
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Also known as Peak 13,016. After seeing Rowell's pics of this peak Mary Erdei and I did a nice moderate line on the east edge of the face. Probably no more than 5.8 - May 1981
[Hide Photo] Also known as Peak 13,016. After seeing Rowell's pics of this peak Mary Erdei and I did a nice moderate line on the east edge of the face. Probably no more than 5.8 - May 1981
The South Face of Peak 3986 as seen from the approach
[Hide Photo] The South Face of Peak 3986 as seen from the approach
Mary Erdei at the top of the 'Pillar' - May 1981
[Hide Photo] Mary Erdei at the top of the 'Pillar' - May 1981
A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the home of the South Face Route, Kearney Route, and Zig-Zag Dihedral on Peak 3986 as seen from high on the Red Baron Tower.
[Hide Photo] A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the home of the South Face Route, Kearney Route, and Zig-Zag Dihedral on Peak 3986 as seen from high on the Red Baron Tower.