Avg: 3.8 from 149 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Gary Colliver & John Cleare, June 1974|
|Page Views:||44,431 total · 254/month|
|Shared By:||M Morley on Mar 5, 2006|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
I'm sure this has been done many times car-to-car by parties stronger than mine, but most will opt for at least one overnight at either Iceberg or Upper Boyscout Lakes to acclimatize and enjoy the surroundings. Consider combining with one of the Whitney routes (East Face, East Buttress) by camping an extra night at Iceberg.
The route itself is roughly 8 pitches, and follows a sharp crescent-shaped spine on the southern aspect of the peak. The start is a bit ambiguous, so just follow the path of least resistance for a pitch or so to gain the ridge proper. Continue along the ridge for several more pitches. At one point, you'll have to downclimb about 15' to a prominent Looking south from The Notch. . The pitch above the notch is the The money pitch, just above the prominent notch. , on impeccable golden rock. Continue for several more pitches, staying on the spine for full value. From the summit, descend via the The beautiful East Ridge descent. . This will take you back to Early morning at Upper Boy Scout Lake, Mt. Whitney Area . Choose another descent option if you left gear at Iceberg Lake.
Allow *roughly* 6 hours from base to summit. Allow roughly 5 additional hours to descend from the summit back to the car at Whitney Portal.