All Locations > California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell

Fishhook Arête

Name: Fishhook Arête
Rating: 3.8

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Mount Russell

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bloody Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Coyote Crossing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Fishhook Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Goldbug T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mithril Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	South Slope T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Star Trekkin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Western Front T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.58999, -118.29099
FA:	Gary Colliver & John Cleare, June 1974
Page Views:	61,327 total · 254/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Mar 5, 2006
Admins:	Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.

Description

Excellent rock, incredible exposure, high elevation, and panoramic views earn this the deserved status of one of the 100 best alpine climbs named in John Moynier and Claude Fiddler's "Sierra Classics".

I'm sure this has been done many times car-to-car by parties stronger than mine, but most will opt for at least one overnight at either Iceberg or Upper Boyscout Lakes to acclimatize and enjoy the surroundings. Consider combining with one of the Whitney routes (East Face, East Buttress) by camping an extra night at Iceberg.

The route itself is roughly 8 pitches, and follows a sharp crescent-shaped spine on the southern aspect of the peak. The start is a bit ambiguous, so just follow the path of least resistance for a pitch or so to gain the ridge proper. Continue along the ridge for several more pitches. At one point, you'll have to downclimb about 15' to a prominent

. The pitch above the notch is the

, on impeccable golden rock. Continue for several more pitches, staying on the spine for full value. From the summit, descend via the

. This will take you back to

. Choose another descent option if you left gear at Iceberg Lake.

Allow *roughly* 6 hours from base to summit. Allow roughly 5 additional hours to descend from the summit back to the car at Whitney Portal.

Location

From Iceberg Lake, scramble up and over the saddle between Whitney and Russell. Head north, picking up a faint climber's trail to the base of the arête. Several starts are possible.

Protection

A standard alpine rack will suffice. Hexes and/or tri-cams may be substituted for cams to keep the weight down. A couple double-length runners. Double ropes are nice, but not essential. There is no fixed gear on the route as I recall.