Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Cam Dodds, Chip Powell 08/2020
Page Views: 395 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chip Powell on Oct 15, 2020
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Coyote Crossing follows a somewhat inobvious line on the arete and face of the pillar that forms the left facing wall of Mithril Dihedral. A slight deviation for the typical splitter Russell routes, this route involves some exciting and exposed face climbing, with plenty of hand jams to boot.

Pitch 1: Climb crack system with the inverted triangular flake, move right out of a small roof and climb cracks trending left to a stance on the left side of the arete (5.10)

Pitch 2: Climb a crack in a corner on the right side of a hanging pillar to a partially hanging belay below a roof (we found a bail anchor here suggesting a previous attempt or an off route party attempting Mithril) (5.9+)

Pitch 3: Pull the roof on jugs, crossing the arete in the process (wild!), climb incipient cracks, knobs, and edges up the beautiful orange face to an overlap, undercling left and follow cracks to a sloping belay ledge at the base of a corner (5.10+, PG-13)

Pitch 4: Climb the wide hand/fist crack in a corner, through a roof and onto a knobby face with bottoming cracks, climb cracks and glorious knobs to the apex of the pillar! Belay on top of the pillar(5.10)

-From here, scramble or simul a few hundred feet to the summit

Location

The start of this route can be identified by a downward pointing triangular flake to the right of the Mithril Dihedral's start and crosses the arete twice before joining Mithril for the final scrambling pitches

Protection

2x pro small to #3, nuts. offsets optional

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