Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mt. Russell

Bloody Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Fishhook Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mithril Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
South Slope T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Star Trekkin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Western Front T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alan Bartlett & Robb Dellinger, 1978
Page Views: 9,611 total, 67/month
Shared By: ttriche on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.

P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.

We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.

Location

This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!

Protection

Alpine rack, extra hand-sized pieces and nuts.
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Amazing route! I think the OW is the way to do it, a good battle with the altitude. Takes good gear. When you get to the obvious spot where you can make easy moves right into the Mithral corner stay left and give 'er. The "5.11" alternative looked like sparse protection and would be a bit spicy in comfy shoes. Didn't try it though so can't comment much. Moving into mithral isn't doing the whole route as the OW or the alternate are harder than the "crux" down low on the route. Prob more like 10- that way but still a blast I'm sure if OW isn't your thing. Also, a third #2 and 3 Camalot would make for faster anchors as there are sections where you can go for a long ways until running out of gear and crack stays pretty parallel in sections. My $0.02 Oct 14, 2014
The Climbing Doctor
Santa Monica, CA
The Climbing Doctor   Santa Monica, CA
I had heard a lot about the different variations to end Star Trekkin. If you go up and left then you climb “5.10 dirty offwidth” or if you continue high right then you traverse “5.11 sketch.” This is why we brought extra small gear and 3.5 and a 4 camalot. In retrospect they were pretty useless on the route. I set up a belay had an obvious exit point towards Mithral Dihedral. The exit was a traverse with about 10 feet of easy class 5. It was a cruiser finish into the final pitch of Mithral. You can find the photo of the traverse here:

theclimbingdoctor.com/2014/…

Climbed 6/28/14 C2C in 17.5 hours. Jun 29, 2014
C Miller   CA  
Zoom Loco  
 
Excellent handcrack, one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Sierra. You can do Mithral and Star Trekkin both in a day by climbing Star Trekkin first and then rapping Mithril, then climbing back up it to get your gear. I put a TR up here, hopefully it's helpful: pullharder.org/2012/03/22/h… Mar 22, 2012
Murf
 
Murf  
 
I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened. Mar 15, 2010
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
 
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
 
There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb. Jul 16, 2009
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Murf's comments posted into the route description - thanks Murf. Sep 17, 2008
just follow the obvious line the OW is not bad, good for ya if you plan on doing keeeler. Great climb!!! bring smallest aliens for the crux. Jul 30, 2008
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
Isn't there some options at the top? Heard you can traverse over to Mithril, head into an offwidth or do some scary 5.11 stuff.

Anyone have a recommendation? Apr 17, 2008