Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alan Bartlett & Robb Dellinger, 1978
Page Views: 11,523 total · 71/month
Shared By: ttriche on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.

P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.

We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.

Location

This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!

Protection

Alpine rack, extra hand-sized pieces and nuts.

Photos