Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alan Bartlett, Alan Pietransanta, September 1979
Page Views: 6,698 total · 47/month
Shared By: Murf on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Bloody Corner could be considered Mithril's "big brother" in some ways. The corner is a beauty; clean, looks dead vertical and an almost perfect right angle. The money climbing is a touch shorter than Mithril, but harder and more sustained. It is as good or better than anything on the other Russell "Big Three", but the approach and exit pitches leave something to be desired.

Pitch 1 60-100': A short easy pitch up to a bench below the corner. You can start this pitch from the same bench as Mithral/Startrekkin' or you could begin lower, more toward the corner of the west face and southwest buttress. Depending on the start, you could potentially link pitches 1 and 2.

Pitch 2 ( 80+', 5.9+ ): Wander up a handcrack to base of the corner. The rock in the corner is grainy and loose in places. The decision between big hands or a layback is what's on your mind for the top of the pitch.

Pitch3 ( 90+', 5.10- ): Climb technical, but intermittent, liebacking to the base of the crux pitch.

Pitch 4 (150', 5.10): Lieback, stem, jam, and otherwise enjoy yourself on this beauty. The climbing gets steeper and the options for resting and stemming disappear the higher you go. The best belay is under the big roof (#3 Camalots).

Pitch 5 (100+, 5.9): Move around the roof(crux) and climb through grooves to the subsummit. A platform is reached, but it is likely more efficient to move 25-30' higher. Again some of the rock on this pitch is loose, and care should be taken of climbers below.

A few hundred feet of 4th and 5th class lead to the summit, basically the same ground as Mithral and Startrekkin'.

Location

Bloody Corner is the leftmost corner on the southwest face. It is considerable shallower than Mithral. Like Mithral, the corner can be bitterly cold if you get an early start. Planning on being in the corner at 11am and you'll likely have sunshine.

Either descend the SW Chimney or take the East Ridge back to Upper Boy Scout.

Protection

- Doubles from green alien to #3 Camalot
- A #3.5 or New Style #4 can be helpful on pitch 2.
- A single set of nuts.

Depending on ones comfort with backcleaning and gear spacing, triples of yellow Alien through #2 Camalot could be nice on the crux pitch.

Photos