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Routes in Mount Russell
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Bloody Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coyote Crossing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Fishhook Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldbug T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mithril Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Slope T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Star Trekkin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Western Front T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.58999, -118.29099 |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett, Alan Pietransanta, September 1979 |
| Page Views: | 7,845 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Sep 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Description
Bloody Corner could be considered Mithril's "big brother" in some ways. The corner is a beauty; clean, looks dead vertical and an almost perfect right angle. The money climbing is a touch shorter than Mithril, but harder and more sustained. It is as good or better than anything on the other Russell "Big Three", but the approach and exit pitches leave something to be desired.
Pitch 1 60-100': A short easy pitch up to a bench below the corner. You can start this pitch from the same bench as Mithral/Startrekkin' or you could begin lower, more toward the corner of the west face and southwest buttress. Depending on the start, you could potentially link pitches 1 and 2.
Pitch 2 ( 80+', 5.9+ ): Wander up a handcrack to base of the corner. The rock in the corner is grainy and loose in places. The decision between big hands or a layback is what's on your mind for the top of the pitch.
Pitch3 ( 90+', 5.10- ): Climb technical, but intermittent, liebacking to the base of the crux pitch.
Pitch 4 (150', 5.10): Lieback, stem, jam, and otherwise enjoy yourself on this beauty. The climbing gets steeper and the options for resting and stemming disappear the higher you go. The best belay is under the big roof (#3 Camalots).
Pitch 5 (100+, 5.9): Move around the roof(crux) and climb through grooves to the subsummit. A platform is reached, but it is likely more efficient to move 25-30' higher. Again some of the rock on this pitch is loose, and care should be taken of climbers below.
A few hundred feet of 4th and 5th class lead to the summit, basically the same ground as Mithral and Startrekkin'.
Location
Bloody Corner is the leftmost corner on the southwest face. It is considerable shallower than Mithral. Like Mithral, the corner can be bitterly cold if you get an early start. Planning on being in the corner at 11am and you'll likely have sunshine.
Either descend the SW Chimney or take the East Ridge back to Upper Boy Scout.
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