Avg: 3.7 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Alan Bartlett, Alan Pietransanta, September 1979|
|Page Views:||6,698 total · 47/month|
|Shared By:||Murf on Sep 20, 2010|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Pitch 1 60-100': A short easy pitch up to a bench below the corner. You can start this pitch from the same bench as Mithral/Startrekkin' or you could begin lower, more toward the corner of the west face and southwest buttress. Depending on the start, you could potentially link pitches 1 and 2.
Pitch 2 ( 80+', 5.9+ ): Wander up a handcrack to base of the corner. The rock in the corner is grainy and loose in places. The decision between big hands or a layback is what's on your mind for the top of the pitch.
Pitch3 ( 90+', 5.10- ): Climb technical, but intermittent, liebacking to the base of the crux pitch.
Pitch 4 (150', 5.10): Lieback, stem, jam, and otherwise enjoy yourself on this beauty. The climbing gets steeper and the options for resting and stemming disappear the higher you go. The best belay is under the big roof (#3 Camalots).
Pitch 5 (100+, 5.9): Move around the roof(crux) and climb through grooves to the subsummit. A platform is reached, but it is likely more efficient to move 25-30' higher. Again some of the rock on this pitch is loose, and care should be taken of climbers below.
A few hundred feet of 4th and 5th class lead to the summit, basically the same ground as Mithral and Startrekkin'.
Either descend the SW Chimney or take the East Ridge back to Upper Boy Scout.