Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Galen Rowell & Chris Jones (1971); FFA: Alan Bartlett & Kim Walker (1978)
Page Views: 13,719 total · 69/month
Shared By: justin dubois on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details


This route is a link up of a couple routes on the west face of Russell. All I can say is it takes the BEST looking line on the west face, right directly up the center. Beyond that the photos will have to suffice for locating the route.

 After a little scrambling to reach the base of the crack, you pull up into the system proper. The crux is these moves pulling around a little bulge on some grainy rock. Follow this system for a pitch to some ledgy terrain. Cross some weird stuff to the left to gain the plumbline system. After that, it's hard to get lost. Follow the crack/dihedral/flake system for 3 pitches or so.

 This description does little to relay the striking beauty of this climb, but trust me, it's good.


Left of Mithral Dihedral, on the west face, dead center.

see photo


A single rack to #3 Camalot works, maybe a few doubles 3/4"-2".