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Routes in Thor Peak

South east couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Stemwinder, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Thor Peak Ice WI2
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Elevation: 12,300 ft
GPS: 36.574, -118.261 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,355 total · 76/month
Shared By: Justin Tomlinson on Dec 9, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

The southeast face of Thor is strikingly beautiful and begs to be climbed. Seen from the hikers trail to Mt. Whitney it is hard not to trip over your feet as you stare at all the possible lines on this fetching mass.

Other than making a lasting impression in my mind and what I read in the RJ Secor High Sierra guide, I know nothing about this peak. I would be very curious to hear peoples impressions of the routes on this peak.

Routes here are mostly grade III and under, seems like a great place for an adventurous moderate, relatively close to the car. While others are continuing to trudge up to Whitney and Russell, you'd be roping up and likely have the peak to yourself.

Getting There

Hike the Whitney trail until you see Thor. I don't know anything about where to leave the trail. From photos and memory, it does appear to be quite a slog to the base of the routes.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Thor Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2
 4
Thor Peak Ice
Ice, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 6
The Stemwinder
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thor Peak Ice
 4
WI2 Ice, Alpine
The Stemwinder
 6
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
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JP.8d
Menlo Park, CA
JP.8d   Menlo Park, CA
I've walked by this twice now en route to Whitney. Have scoured online, guidebooks, etc. and have found very little about routes on Thor Peak, save "Stemwinder". Does anyone have info on the striking crack directly up the orange patina in the center bowl of the formation? How about the steep dihedrals on left side of peak? This thing looks incredible. Any info appreciated. Thx Sep 1, 2014
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
JP.8d, I just looked into the Secor guide at the dihedrals. As of 2011 printing only the right of the two dihedrals has been climbed, South Crack, III, 5.9 sustained off-width and chimney (check the photo for more details). Two pitches go up left side of formation to the ledges, move right to the second crack and go up. I'd recommend the R.J. Secor guide as the best source I know of.

As for the center of the orange patina, you may be looking at Lucifer's Hammer, III, 5.10a, FA: Sept. 13, 1997 by Pat Brennan, Em Holland and Bruce Bindner. Sep 7, 2014

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