Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: William Rice, Robert Brinton, Glen Dawson 9/7/1936
Page Views: 2,115 total · 35/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jun 16, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

An "old school" (1936!) route which winds its way up the right-side of the huge south face of Thor Peak.

Traverse left on a ledge from the near the right-end of the south face to get to the start of the route. A 10' class 3-4 chimney must be overcome to get to P1. P1 is marked with a fixed piton and stopper right off the deck. Make the crux 5.4 chimney move and gain easier ground heading up and right. Many options exist between class 3 and easy 5th. Choose your own adventure. You are aiming for a small red pinnacle which is passed behind from the left. Some easy but very exposed slab moves out right lead to left-leaning ramps/cracks, marked with the occasional fixed angle-piton. Once on the ridge, head west up class 2 talus to the summit of Thor Peak. I descended the north-east slope into the N Fork of Lone Pine Creek. If you do this, you will need to carry all your stuff. There may be another descent nearer to the south face.

Location

Right hand side of the south face. Follow the main Whitney Trail, but before you reach signs for Lone Pine Lake go cross-country up and right through forest and slabs to access the wall. 1.5-2 hours from the Portal.

Protection

Light alpine rack, some fixed pins.

Photos

Has this seen a winter ascent? Feb 4, 2017
Joel Ryan
New York, New York
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
Yes. Apr 21, 2017
J Smith
  5.4
J Smith  
  5.4
Fun adventure climb. Took us about 3 hrs for the approach – took the trail all the way to Outpost camp then cut back east along the cliff base and navigated up the ramp systems to get to the old snag. Roped up here. P1: short traverse left through 3rd + class chimney to the base of the crux chimney. P2: awkward 5.4 chimney for 15’ (piton in place with a fixed nut above it) and then an easier trough, belayed at trough’s end, 80’ pitch. P3-P5: up 3rd and 4th class terrain aiming for and then going behind red pillar to a notch. We generally stayed on the face and ledges just right of the main gulley. P6: lots of exposure as you leave the notch and make an easy 5th class move onto a left trending slab. Follow the 4th class slabs passing a few short headwalls until you run out of rope. We unroped and climbed 100’ of 3rd class up and then left on a ramp system leading to the summit plateau. There is still 30min of sand, scree and talus to the true summit - aim for the furthest right pinnacle you can see.

Descent: head east down the sand aiming just left of the prominent rock outcropping. Once past the outcropping the terrain steepens as you navigate trees, boulders and bushes. The gully begins to narrow as you trend right and finally have some unpleasant bushwhacking on deer trails until you hit the trail at the switchbacks below Lone Pine Lake. Next time I would descend to Lower Boy Scout Lake. Jul 21, 2018