Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Whitney Portal

Beach, Right Side, The 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Beach, The 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Candlelight Buttress 4 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Candlelight Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
El Gaucho 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
El Segundo Buttress 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Hairpin Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Parisian Buttress 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Poolhall Wall 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Portal Edge Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Premier Buttress 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Roadwork Wall 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Solstice Celebration Wall 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Whale, The 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Whitney Portal Buttress 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 8
Wrinkled Lady, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The Whitney Portal is home to many cragging routes as well as some longer, older Beckey routes. The sought-after climb is Bony Fingers, but there is supposedly quite a bit of development going on there in recent years. Unfortunately, comprehensive information is unavailable... I think.
Portal Road Closure Details

Getting There

Take Whitney Portal Road west from the town of Lone Pine, past Alabama Hills, and up into the mountains until it dead ends at the trailhead for Mt. Whitney. Pretty simple.

98 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Whitney Portal Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Whitney Portal

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Ummagumma
Trad, Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inknobvious Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack")
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheltering Sky
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostrider
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Nimbus
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Country For Old Men
Trad 8 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bony Fingers
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Voyage
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gangway
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schrodinger's Cat
Trad 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riptide
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Green Gecko
Trad
Ummagumma Wrinkled Lady 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 Trad, Aid
Inknobvious Line El Gaucho 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Beckey Route El Segundo Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") Whitney Portal Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0 Premier Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Sheltering Sky Candlelight Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Ghostrider Whitney Portal Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Nimbus Whitney Portal Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
No Country For Old Men Whitney Portal Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Bony Fingers Whale 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Crystal Voyage Beach, Right Side 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Gangway Whitney Portal Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
Schrodinger's Cat Beach, Right Side 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Riptide Beach, Right Side 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Green Gecko Candlelight Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Whitney Portal »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
looking for partner to climb in whitney portal october through november. 5.10, 5.11. trad is rad. let me know Oct 17, 2014
Thanks for the info Russ....looks like a pretty classy line. Oct 11, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The OW is like 5.10 or 5.10+

Thread here: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

Here are some photos stolen from Big Bob Bolton and Robs Muir:






Oct 11, 2013
Anyone have any info on the OW near the bathroom in the portal campground??

I believe it's right near the last loop across from the biggest campsite(w/ the massive flat top boulder in the back ground).

It looks wicked...leans diagnal to the left, about 5 deg overhang, looks like it has a small ledge on the left 3/4 up the route. Has TR bolts. Oct 11, 2013
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
This area has a massive amount of unclimbed (or undocumented) pitches. The wall across from the beach only has one established route that I could find in the guidebook, but it looks like there are many different options for climbing. Also, just upstream from this wall looks like the potential for a fun and steep one pitch bolted/mixed crag. Is there any reason that none of this area has been climbed? Aug 19, 2013
Late October, early/mid November typically. If tripping to get there, planning anything later than that is getting risky. In light winters trips can even be managed year round if there is enough time between storms for melt.

A good share of the routes face south, and walls like The Goucho, Roadwork, and The Poolhall are lower so a little warmer and less of a problem if there is some snow. But it's 8,000' so by November it can get frigid when things go in the shade.

The other problem is that once big enough fall storms hit the road is closed (at least technically), also physically if there's enough snow - even if some walls do melt back out.

In summary, if you want to be reasonably comfortable, and have all walls accessible, plan on early November being the end of the good window. But, as mentioned it can still vary depending on the harshness of the particular years weather. Long answer to a simple question, I know.

fyi - if you're tripping through, it would be good to have the guide. Lot's of stuff in the guide that isn't posted here. Plus there's stuff that is too new for the guide also. Plenty to do. And the ASCA replacement effort has now done the majority of the routes - at all walls except perhaps the Portal Buttress where some of the longer routes haven't been replaced (slackers!). Sep 21, 2011
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
How late in the season can one reasonably expect to climb here? Sep 21, 2011
Thanks to the ASCA, Johnny Woodward, Darrell Hensell, SP Parker, and everyone else who invested their time in rebolting this area. Thanks also to Peter Croft and Marty Lewis for putting together such a nice guide. Now I am psyched to go climb there. Mar 25, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree


New guide is ready to ship. Order your copy today at Maximus Press Aug 11, 2008
For those interested in the Portal but concerned about those old 1/4" manky bolts: Thanks to ASCA support over 250 bolts have been replaced with stainless fatties in the past couple of years, and next year will see more replacement activity. And of course, everything new has bolts that are up to code. For information on which routes have been replaced:

safeclimbing.org/areas/cali…
(sorry, can't seem to get the thing to leave the ".htm" alone)

The list is fairly current as of this post, but still needs an update for Candlelight Buttress where all but a handful of bolts where replaced late in the year.
Dec 18, 2007
It's winter 2007. Hope to see that new guide soon, Marty. Lots of recent FA activity. I've seen the Portal proofs, it'll be a good guide. Dec 17, 2007
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
Looks like the guidebook is delayed to Winter 2007. Sep 14, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
"Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer."

Yeah LuLu, where's our guides? Less handyman, more publication!

......waiting

~Susan Mar 7, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer.

maximuspress.com/ Mar 7, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
The Whitney Portal Road leaves from the town of Lone Pine about 40 miles south of Big Pine. Head west from Big Pine if you want to go to the Palisades or Temple Crag. Mar 6, 2007

More About Whitney Portal

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Whitney Portal (216)

Most Popular · Newest