Type: Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey and Mike Heath, March 1971, FFA Dean Hobbs, Will Crljenko, February 1977
Page Views: 15,022 total · 98/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on Jul 2, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Aron Quiter

You & This Route

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P-1 rope stretcher. Start at a dirty dihedral which gains a ledge. Negotiate some brush then head up a right-leaning layback/offwidth, over a small roof (pretty stiff for .7) and to a slung tree belay stance, flake for anchor. P-2 Climb up and right to an arete with nice jams and gear to a wild roof move (lieback) and another 30 or so feet to a gear belay in the vertical crack up and slightly right (.75-1" cams)... do not belay from flake lower down or get suckered into going out left, the line goes straight up. P-3 Crack comes and go and with it a little run-out. Fun, techy climbing. A welcome fixed piton and more moves leads to a bolted belay out LEFT. P-4 Follow fins straight up. Bolts are hard to see looking up from the belay but they're there. (For some reason, someone put a bolt right where there's some good gear. Nice 3/4 placement) Follow up (more bolts?) to a belay at the bottom of a large crack (2-3" pieces). Fourth class leads to the summit.


Getting down is fine, but do it in the light. Your goal, once getting down sandy ledges and brushy slopes is to aim for a notch to the South. (Think Mountaineers route on Whitney but in reverse) Follow this along the base of the El Segundo Butt and back to your packs.


Gear to 3 1/2.