Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey and Mike Heath, March 1971, FFA Dean Hobbs, Will Crljenko, February 1977
Page Views: 11,256 total · 93/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on Jul 2, 2009 with improvements by Ziggy Chalkdust
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details

Description

P-1 rope stretcher. Start at a dirty dihedral which gains a ledge. Negotiate some brush then head up a right-leaning layback/offwidth, over a small roof (pretty stiff for .7) and to a slung tree belay stance, flake for anchor. P-2 Climb up and right to an arete with nice jams and gear to a wild roof move (lieback) and another 30 or so feet to a gear belay in the vertical crack up and slightly right (.75-1" cams)... do not belay from flake lower down or get suckered into going out left, the line goes straight up. P-3 Crack comes and go and with it a little run-out. Fun, techy climbing. A welcome fixed piton and more moves leads to a bolted belay out LEFT. P-4 Follow fins straight up. Bolts are hard to see looking up from the belay but they're there. (For some reason, someone put a bolt right where there's some good gear. Nice 3/4 placement) Follow up (more bolts?) to a belay at the bottom of a large crack (2-3" pieces). Fourth class leads to the summit.

Location

Getting down is fine, but do it in the light. Your goal, once getting down sandy ledges and brushy slopes is to aim for a notch to the South. (Think Mountaineers route on Whitney but in reverse) Follow this along the base of the El Segundo Butt and back to your packs.

Protection

Gear to 3 1/2.

Photos