Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Troy Mayr and Bob Bolton (2001)|
|Page Views:||3,737 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Oct 24, 2010|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Very well protected by most slab standards; even on 5.7, you only need to climb 15 feet or so between bolts. Great rock and great climbing throughout.
Pitch one: traverse rightward for a handful of bolts until the bolt line heads up to the first anchor. At the second bolt, a variation called 'Gimme Shelter' goes straight up for 180 or so feet to the second anchor of Sheltering Sky. (60 feet; 5.10a).
Pitch two: Follow bolts wandering up and left for a great and fairly sustained pitch. (5.10a; 95 feet).
Pitch three: Follow great knobby rock straight up clipping bolts on the way to a two bolt anchor. Fun. (5.8; 110 feet).
Pitch four: Follow bolts straight up to an anchor. The final 35 feet of this pitch are protected by an old quarter inch bolt, but the climbing is moderate and solid. (5.7; 95 feet).
Important note on the rappels. Croft and Lewis' book states that the raps are all 100 feet. I don't think this is the case on the third pitch. I had maybe 4-5 feet of tail left on my 70m (with rope stretch) when rapping the third pitch. I don't see how a 60m rope would have made it.
the route faces east-south-east.
Within a hundred yards or less the trail will turn hard left; however, you follow a vague trail up the gully to the obvious white buttress above. Plan on 30-45 minutes depending on how motivated you are.
There is a small ledge/slab that runs across the middle of Candlelight buttress; there are two anchor bolts at its far right end for a couple of other routes. Sheltering Sky begins at the far left side of this ledge and about 30 feet below a prominent pine tree about 2/3 of the way up from the bottom of the buttress.