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Routes in The Wrinkled Lady

Ummagumma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details

Description

The Wrinkled Lady is a 500' tall pyramid-shaped wall, rife with geometric dihedrals; taking pride of place at the highest point on the ridgeline above the north side of the Whitney Portal area. This formation can be seen up (wayyyy up) and left of the Whitney Portal Buttress. First climbed by none other than Fred Beckey back in the late 60's/early 70's - his route follows the prominent dihedral system with large roofs shooting straight up the center of the wall (5.8 A3). The difficult and lengthy approach all but left this formation in the realm of true obscurity. More recently though, an increasingly popular moderate free-solo route, Ummagumma III-IV 5.7 A0 or 5.9, was recently established and tackles the prominent dihedral ~200' left of Fred's route. Ummagumma has been described as the "Royal Arches of the Portal."

Getting There

Climb the first 2,000' of Ummagumma (5.7 A0 or 5.9), or figure out something else which will likely be hours of steep scree-scrambling, bush-whacking, leave-you-cryin'-for-mama type of terrain.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wrinkled Lady

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
 5
Ummagumma
Trad, Aid
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ummagumma
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 Trad, Aid
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