Avg: 3.4 from 47 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mike Strassman, Raleigh Collins, Mark Husbands, Charles Byrne, and Jackie Carroll|
|Page Views:||17,310 total · 97/month|
|Shared By:||ttriche on Dec 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.
P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).
P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!
P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).
P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).
Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).
Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.
Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.
Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...
Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.