All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Whitney Portal > Whitney Portal Buttress
Avg: 3.4 from 37 votes
Routes in Whitney Portal Buttress
|Beckey-Callis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2|
|Gangway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ghostrider T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Mean Streak T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R|
|Nimbus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|No Country For Old Men T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Trivial Pursuit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mike Strassman, Raleigh Collins, Mark Husbands, Charles Byrne, and Jackie Carroll|
|Page Views:||12,955 total, 98/month|
|Shared By:||ttriche on Dec 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Portal Road Closure Details
Due to rockfall, duration unknown
DescriptionGreat route -- well-protected face cruxes and some wild, varied trad climbing on pitches 1-3, transitioning abruptly to sport-bolted knob pulling for the next 5 pitches. You can leave your packs in the bowl atop P4 if you plan to rap the route, since you will pass by here on the way down and won't need the gear after this point.
P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.
P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).
P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!
P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).
P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).
Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).
Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.
Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.
Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...
LocationA full topo with more beta can be found at http://www.rangeoflight.com/Portal.htm (Mike Strassman's site).
Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.