Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mike Strassman, Raleigh Collins, Mark Husbands, Charles Byrne, and Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 15,965 total · 97/month
Shared By: ttriche on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details
Access Issue: Covid-19 Access Restrictions Details

Description

Great route -- well-protected face cruxes and some wild, varied trad climbing on pitches 1-3, transitioning abruptly to sport-bolted knob pulling for the next 5 pitches. You can leave your packs in the bowl atop P4 if you plan to rap the route, since you will pass by here on the way down and won't need the gear after this point.

P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.

P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).

P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!

P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).

P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).

Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).

Variations:

Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.

Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.

Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...

Location

A full topo with more beta can be found at rangeoflight.com/Portal.htm (Mike Strassman's site).

Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.

Protection

Draws for P4-P8, full trad rack (multiple #4 and #5 Camalots helpful on P3) for both Ghostrider and Satoris start variations. Unless you plan to summit via Wonderwall or Satoris, two 60m ropes are MANDATORY to rappel the route!

Photos