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Routes in Whitney Portal Buttress

Beckey-Callis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Gangway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghostrider T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mean Streak T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R
Nimbus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
No Country For Old Men T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978
Page Views: 6,846 total, 53/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. I am not sure what it is actually called or who were the first ascentionists. In anycase, this is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.

Location

About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.

Protection

Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. Two slung bolts are at the top of the crack (without rap rings). Rappel off the slings (do not lower off). Pull the rope slowly so as to avoid weakening the slings.
amockalypsenow
San Diego
amockalypsenow   San Diego
I felt the slab extension was harder than the crux of ghostrider. Sep 29, 2017
AJ
AJ  
This is a great pitch. Doing the extension is the way to go because it takes you to a natural ledge instead of an arbitrary hanging belay in the middle of nowhere. The slab section is very cool and may have cleaned up some since the above comments. It felt a little harder than 5.10a but not as hard as the 5.10d face sequence on the 4th pitch of Gangway. Nov 8, 2016
Onsight after doing part of ghostrider earlier in the day. This felt easier than the crux of ghostrider, but harder than that undercling-traverse section on the second pitch. Reminded me of Rubicon in Joshua tree in terms of difficulty.

I left bail biners on the bolts. Please enjoy them! May 4, 2015
Ryan-G Gittins
San Diego
 
Ryan-G Gittins   San Diego
 
Great, full value line. I whipped 6 times before gaining the anchors, then went full air born before making the clip on the slab. Not standard practice for me, but it's so good, and the fall so clean, that it was well worth it. 3 x .75 will be appreciated, if you're breaking into the grade. Sep 22, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10b
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10b
Richard, you're spot-on.

Slab + sun = grim

Great route. Apr 13, 2013
Richard Shore
  5.10+
Richard Shore  
  5.10+
Repeated this route last weekend; this time with the slab extension to link into Ghostrider. I must disagree with Hensel's statement that the slab is only 10a - this felt harder than the crux of the crack below. It was thin, sequential, and in the heat of the sun felt closer to 11a than 10a. Tat slings on the lower-off bolts are currently gone, bring your own if you want to finish at the end of the crack. Sep 17, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10+
Richard Shore  
  5.10+
If Nimbus over on the right side of WP Buttress is 5.10c, then this really is the "5.11 crack." This felt significantly harder than then crux of that route. Bad feet with lots of 0.5 and 0.75 camalot-sized jamming. May 6, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack! Nov 1, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
you can also use this as a great way to warm up for Gangway! Just head right from the anchor up a brushy gully and whamo, yer at the base of the crux pitch (.12a semi-sandbagged IMHO) of Gangway. Jun 22, 2009
Tanager can now be done as a first pitch to Ghostrider. Continue face climbing past two more bolts after reaching the belay bolts at the end of the crack. The extended pitch ends on the large ledge at the last/bottom rappel station of Ghostrider.

The crack is still the crux so the overall rating remains the same. This is probably the best start to Ghostrider. May 20, 2008
C Miller   CA  
Named after the species of bird? Sep 10, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
The route is called Tanager 5.10b FA by Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary in 1978 if you can believe that!

~Susan Sep 10, 2007