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Routes in Whitney Portal Buttress

Beckey-Callis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Gangway T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghostrider T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mean Streak T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R
Nimbus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
No Country For Old Men T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Peter Croft
Page Views: 3,633 total, 28/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one.

The first pitch is, according to Marty, the best start option for Ghostrider. 4 new bolts and a little bit of gear. Wandering face on good rock to a ledge with a belay.

Not shown on the topo is the fourth pitch, which has bolts and gear to a two bolt anchor.

  • Also goes at 5.11a AO if not up to freeing the 2nd pitch.

Location

To the right of Satoris.

Protection

Draws, standard rack

Photos

Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Had a great time on this route last week, here are a few things to add:
-P1 definitely Tanager start
-P2 crux, as stated above, is brief, stout, and pretty scabby. Easy to pull through.
-P3 is a blast, and very long. I'd recommend triples of BD #1-3 and 1 or 2 #4. I had doubles and had to back clean from up high on the pitch when I ran out of any gear that would fit the last 50', this after fairly long runouts and bumping placements higher.
-P4 is fun and worth the additional effort in descent. With a 70m, we rapped climbers' R to the major ledge, scrambled down below the lone big pine tree and sniffed out some chains at the edge of the ledge. 2 raps down an unknown route climbers' R of Trivial Pursuit got us to the ground. A tag line would certainly make things easier.
-This wall gets loads of sun. 70°F mid-morning and I was cooking. Sep 23, 2017
AJ
 
AJ  
 
The 3rd pitch is by far the “money pitch” but the 4th is also fun and well worth doing. Traverse along under the roof until you can pull heroically over it on jugs, continue right past a cool 5.10d face sequence (well protected by 2 bolts) and then layback a thin crack feature for another 30-40’ to the anchor. You will want finger size gear for this last section. Nov 8, 2016
You can rap from the top of Gangway P3 with 1 70 or 80 M- do a short rap left (looking down) to Trivial pursuit chains then 2nd rap back right to a huge ledge with bushes- walk down this to P1 anchor of Gangway or all the way to Tanager anchor.

Do Tanager to start this climb (.3-#1 cams) then walk up ledge to P1 anchor of Gangway. Leave everything smaller than a .75 cam at this belay. #1, #2, #3, #4 for Gangway - save 1 of each for the top after the wide section. I don't think big cams would work/ you don't need them. Nothing smaller than .75 fits the 3rd pitch

Great route Oct 29, 2012
J Smith
 
J Smith  
 
Awesome route but definitely start on Tanager, the first pitch is junk - to many rope drag inducing turns on friable rock. Second pitch felt mostly 5.10 except at the second to last bolt which we aided - you could aid the whole thing and make it much easier. Third pitch is why you do this route, a full 60m of stellar climbing. The crack mostly takes BD #2 and larger, I would recommend extra pieces in the #3 and #4 range and 1 x #5 (new sizes). Never felt 5.11a to me, in fact it didn't feel much harder if any than the 10c dihedral on No Country for Old Men. Aug 26, 2012
jfailing
Portland, OR
  5.11a PG13
jfailing   Portland, OR
  5.11a PG13
This route was incredible! Did it at 11a-A0 by aiding the bolt-ladder - the 12 option looked ridiculously hard... We didn't do the fourth pitch.

First two pitches are alright - "Portal 5.9" seems accurate for the first pitch, and the second is easy if you aid the bolt ladder. The third is the money pitch. Make sure to conserve those #1's for the top!

Also important to note - there are only two bolts at the beginning of the third pitch. Rapped with a 70m and a 60m down Trivial Pursuit from the top of the 3rd - someone had done the same as there were carabiners at each anchor. May 14, 2012
The rock quality on the first pitch is quite bad. Traversing on friable friction make it thought-provoking for both leader and follower. My partner and I both broke holds and thought the pitch was harder than the given 5.9 rating. Although I haven't climbed it, the Tanager start seems like a better start to this route. Dec 1, 2011
I believe the curving crack mentioned (as a start to either Ghostrider or Gangway) is Tanager. Previously it ended at the double bolts (as drawn), but now goes to the ledge. Jun 24, 2009
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
oh yea, forgot to add that Gangway is the sicky sickness. I did it twice in two weeks and my partner kept wanting to be lowered from the belay above the corner to do TR laps on it! Jun 22, 2009
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
goes at .12a (semi-sandbagged in my opinion, i feel like a small foothold might have broken?) If you look on the drawn topo you can see an arcing crack that ends at a two bolt anchor (the next route to the right of Ghostrider.) It now has bolts that extend the route up the slab to an anchor. This is a good option to start either Gangway or Ghostrider. Goes at .10b. Jun 22, 2009