Gangway

Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one.

pitch 1: best option is to start on the tanger crack, 11b arching crack into slab.  to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge.  move the belay up and right to another 2 bolt anchor below an obvious line of bolts.

pitch 2: 5.11 A0, climb the bolts up to the thin flake, then A0 across to the last bolt and stand up move to the bush and horizontal flake traverse to another 2 bolt anchor at the base of the huge right facing corner.

pitch 3: 5.11, climb the offwidth past a few bolts until the crack narrow to steep hands and fists up to another chimney section into more fists and then thin hands out right to a bolted anchor tucked in under the long horizontal roof.  nothing smaller then .75 needed.

if stopping at the top of P3 an 80m rope can get you down, 1 medium length rap to a chain anchor on trivial pursuit, one rope 80m stretcher down to some fat metolius rap hangers right above an old set of 1/4inch, and one more rope stretching rap to the ground

pitch 4: 5.10+ head out under the roof passing a cool threading hole, then up and follow bolts rightward to another bolted anchor, the bolts straight up are trivial pursuit which lead to a different bolted anchor and the rest of the trivial pursuit route.

one 2x 70m rope rap to the top of pitch 2 of trivial pursuit, one more 2x 70m rope rap to the ground.

To the right of Satoris.

Draws and alpine draws around a dozen,

Singles .2 to .5 doubles .75, triples 1,2,3 single 4 and 5, set of nuts optional.