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Routes in El Segundo Buttress

Beckey Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey Route direct start T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Chief No Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bird Brain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Can't Get Here From There T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chortle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Manipulator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Press The Eject T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

This is the high buttress seen above Premier Buttress.

A number of routes have been done that are not in the guide yet. Going right from the Becky Route:

Press the Eject, 1 pitch, 10c
Birdbrain, 2 pitches, 11c, 11c
Brainstorm 5.9 (currently in guide)
The Manipulator, 2 pitches, 11c, 10b
Infallible 10d (currently in guide)
Can't Get Here From There, 2 pitches, 11a, 10b
Big Chief No Show, 2 pitches, 11b, 5.8
Crystal Meth 11c (currently in guide)
Portal Road Closure Details

Getting There

To approach this crag, park at a dirt road on the north side of the Whitney Portal Road, across from Whitney Portal Campground. This is just before the Whitney Portal Road makes a switch back.
Follow this road to a corral, continue up to the crag.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at El Segundo Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I climbed the left side of the Becky roof in the late 90's with Jameson W. - we followed it up and left through some 5.9 face climbing to connect with a crack system left of Becky Route, then to top. Ted
Jun 27, 2015
5.9?! Damn. The rock quality was atrocious and the rivet/buttonhead made my partner a bit queasy. The dihredral up to the roof and upside down 6 in crack looked hard. We did a penji around the roof and it still felt like 10 A0.

What can I say other than modern wimpyness.

Thanks for the info, Todd! Sep 11, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
The old Bartlett guide shows the left side of the roof as a 5.9 variation to the Beckey Route, rejoining the route above the roof. Sep 11, 2013
Anybody have any info about the left side of the large roof on El Segundo? Old SMC hangers and really grainy rock. It's in between Chortle and Beckey. Sep 10, 2013
A number of routes have been done that are not in the guide yet. Going right from the Becky Route:

Press the Eject, 1 pitch, 10c
Birdbrain, 2 pitches, 11c, 11c
Brainstorm 5.9 (currently in guide)
The Manipulator, 2 pitches, 11c, 10b
Infallible 10d (currently in guide)
Can't Get Here From There, 2 pitches, 11a, 10b
Big Chief No Show, 2 pitches, 11b, 5.8
Crystal Meth 11c (currently in guide) Jul 31, 2012

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