Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA: Troy Mayr, Bob Bolton FFA: Darrell Hensel, Jonny Woodward
Page Views: 722 total · 10/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details

Description

The first line on the wall, and still the longest. Three good pitches of varied face climbing.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the left leaning seam to start. Follow bolts up the steepening slab, tending left. Finally, proceed straight up toward the left tip of the roof to a two bolt hanging station. Great 11b pitch, worth doing by itself.

Pitch 2: Step left a few feet, go past a couple of bolts, back right a little, then up and curve right following the line of small knobs and edges that go through the steep section. End at a two bolt stance. This is a realtively short pitch. 12a.

Pitch 3: Move left a few feet on easy climbing then follow the line of bolts up the clean slab. Starting at the about the third bolt the climbing is reasonably continuous on small holds and smears for the remainder of the pitch, with a distinct crux near the top. 12a.

For value added the first two pitches can be combined into a single pitch. Doing this might add a letter to the overall grade, who knows.

Location

Right of Riptide.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Seriously engaging route. A new school test piece. If you're not absolutely proficient in slab maybe avoid anything past pitch one. Desperate, and at times faith driven, footholds are supported by invisible hands. Felt quite difficult for 12a when compared to the surrounding area. A worthwhile endeavor and must do for anyone searching to round out their skill set.

Respect to the FFA Aug 21, 2017