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First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett
ID 107719341 ·

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Steve Eddy
Jul 24, 2012
First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett  
First Ascent Sartoris, WPB, Al Bartlett Jul 24, 2012
First Ascent Sartoris, WPB, Al Bartlett Jul 24, 2012
I've wondered if this is climbed much, it is very accessible at the end of Whitney Portal Buttress road. Many go by in on doing the East Face of Whitney or Mt Russell. It is beautiful rock, probably the whitest granite I have seen. When we did it there were no friends, we used only stoppers and three bolts. Dave Black and Al Bartlett were original members of the Buff Mountaineers, I was the honorary member. The club members were slow to take on new methods such as chock or smooth sole shoes. The original assent had some very long runouts. It finally got seconded by Black and Bartlett; I was flying planes in the Coast Guard by then. They added some bolts, which was only fair. It would have been very iffy to do the route without them not knowing where the route went. At the time, I believe it was the longest totally free climb on the East Side. Some others were free with the exception of a bolt or two. Al in his beautiful “Rock Climbs of the Sierra East Side”, Aug 1988 - describes all the climbs of that time in the Whitney Portal Area, and the East Side in general. Steve Eddy Nov 23, 2016

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