Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route)
Avg: 3.3 from 88 votes
Routes in Mt. Emerson
|North Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2|
|Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade II|
|FA:||G Ledyard Stebbins, Robert Stebbins (August 1955)|
|Page Views:||16,958 total, 187/month|
|Shared By:||fossana on Jun 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionShort approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock with varied climbing. Short 5.4 crux.
Note that the chimney may be wet in early season or if there is significant rainfall during otherwise drier months. The route is water polished, so be prepared.
Climb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet there you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney, which is just to the right of the normal route. The chimney is blocked with a large chockstone at which point you can easily cross and move left onto an easy, but exposed ramp system that connects with the original route. Continue up class 3-4 slabs eventually leading back into the original crack for a pitch of class 4. Head up a broad chute for 500 ft, then cross left across a rib into another chute. Aim for a notch in the ridge then proceed along the amazing ridgeline to the summit, passing several gendarmes to keep the grade at class 4.
Emerson is distinct from the reddish, fractured (chossy) Piute Crags to its right. From the trailhead in the N Lake campground take the junction toward Piute Pass. Just before Loch Leven the trail will weave up some granite ramps. Cross country NW to reach the start. Aim for the left-most of two prominent cracks that split the lower face.
S slope (class 3) to Loch Leven, then back down the trail to the N Lake campground.