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Elevation: 13,374 ft
GPS: 37.27073, -118.67329
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Chris Owen on Jul 30, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Essentially the mountains between Piute Pass and Pine Creek. Easily accessible from the east, not so much from the west. The big mountain in this region is Mount Humphreys, it's visible from many parts of the Sierra and is one of the more difficult peaks, being just shy of 14,000 feet. Humphreys Basin is a high tundra like environment, with grass and small lakes, farther north the Pine Creek basin curiously has peaks west of the main crest which are higher. Royce Lakes is a magical spot, surrounded by multiple high peaks, desolate, lifeless and yet hauntingly beautiful. Merriam Peak has recently seen multiple long rock climbs established on its north buttress.

While Mount Humphreys is obvious from Highway 395, the peaks west of Pine Creek remain aloof and mysterious, even as you hike up the Pine Creek Pass Trail, they show themselves reluctantly. From Royce Col however, their true grandeur is revealed, and even farther west of those lies the highly desirable peak;

.

When hiking up to Granite Park one cannot help but be impressed by the rocky peaks and pinnacles to the west - there are sure to be some climbs over there just waiting to be discovered.

Getting There Suggest change

From Hwy 168 west out of Bishop, the North Lake Trailhead splits off right, after passing through Aspendell. Plenty of parking usually at North Lake - although Piute Pass is also very popular in the summer months. The Piute Pass trail leads into Humphreys Basin a good camp spot for climbs on the west side of Mount Humphreys.

Pine Creek Trailhead can be reach by driving west off Hwy 395 through Rovanna and up to a rugged parking area south of the Tungsten Mill. The trailhead accesses Pine Creek Pass, Royce Lakes and through Granite Park to Italy Pass, plus it's advisable to use this trail to access the peaks west of Merriam, Royce and Feather, like Seven Gables. An old road is followed until the Pine Creek Lake Basin is reached.

White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop is a good spot to pick up your permit, if you're coming from the south.

Permits
For the eastern approaches are available here.

48 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI2
 10
Feather Couloir (North Couloir)
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
AI2 Easy Snow
 6
Kindergarten Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 5
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 6
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 13
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 12
East Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI3 Steep Snow
 4
North Couloir Direct
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 50
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 185
Southeast Face (aka the Waterfal…
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 Steep Snow
 4
Checkered Demon Couloir
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
White Peregrines
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 92
Direct North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
The Flying Buttress
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 14
Gargoyle
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feather Couloir (North Coul… Feather Peak
 10
AI2 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Kindergarten Gully Checkered Demon
 6
AI2 Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Mt Julius Caesar
 5
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Mt Tom
 6
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Southwest Slope and Northwe… Mt Humphreys
 13
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
East Couloir Basin Mountain
 12
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
North Couloir Direct Mt Humphreys
 4
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
East Arete Mt Humphreys
 50
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Southeast Face (aka the Wat… Mt Emerson
 185
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Checkered Demon Couloir Checkered Demon
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
White Peregrines Granite Park Spire
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Direct North Buttress Merriam Peak
 92
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Flying Buttress Merriam Peak
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Gargoyle Merriam Peak
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park »

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