Description

Essentially the mountains between Piute Pass and Pine Creek. Easily accessible from the east, not so much from the west. The big mountain in this region is Mount Humphreys, it's visible from many parts of the Sierra and is one of the more difficult peaks, being just shy of 14,000 feet. Humphreys Basin is a high tundra like environment, with grass and small lakes, farther north the Pine Creek basin curiously has peaks west of the main crest which are higher. Royce Lakes is a magical spot, surrounded by multiple high peaks, desolate, lifeless and yet hauntingly beautiful. Merriam Peak has recently seen multiple long rock climbs established on its north buttress.

While Mount Humphreys is obvious from Highway 395, the peaks west of Pine Creek remain aloof and mysterious, even as you hike up the Pine Creek Pass Trail, they show their shapes reluctantly. From Royce Col however, their true grandeur is revealed, and even west of those lies the highly desirable peak;
The NE view of Seven Gables Peak .

When hiking up to Granite Park one cannot help but be impressed by the rocky peaks and pinnacles to the west - there are sure to be some climbs over there just waiting to be discovered.

Getting There

From Hwy 168 west out of Bishop, the North Lake Trailhead splits off right, after passing through Aspendell. Plenty of parking usually at North Lake - although Piute Pass is also very popular in the summer months. The Piute Pass trail leads into Humphreys Basin a good camp spot for climbs on the west side of Mount Humphreys.

Pine Creek Trailhead can be reach by driving west off Hwy 395 through Rovanna and up to a rugged parking area south of the Tungsten Mill. The trailhead accesses Pine Creek Pass, Royce Lakes and through Granite Park to Italy Pass, plus it's advisable to use this trail to access the peaks west of Merriam, Royce and Feather, like Seven Gables. An old road is followed until the Pine Creek Lake Basin is reached.

White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop is a good spot to pick up your permit, if you're coming from the south.

Permits
For the eastern approaches are available here.

37 Total Climbs

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Location: 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI2 Easy Snow
 3
Kindergarten Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
AI2
 7
Feather Couloir (North Couloir)
Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 3
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 10
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 4
East Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 31
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 106
Southeast Face (aka the Waterfal…
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 54
Direct North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
The Flying Buttress
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 3
Gargoyle
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kindergarten Gully Checkered Demon
 3
AI2 Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Feather Couloir (North Coul… Feather Peak
 7
AI2 Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
West Ridge Mt Julius Caesar
 3
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Southwest Slope and Northwe… Mt Humphreys
 10
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
East Couloir Basin Mountain
 4
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
East Arete Mt Humphreys
 31
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Southeast Face (aka the Wat… Mt Emerson
 106
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Northeast Ridge Bear Claw Spire (Peak…
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Direct North Buttress Merriam Peak
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Flying Buttress Merriam Peak
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Gargoyle Merriam Peak
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek & Granite Park »

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