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Routes in Bear Creek Spire

East Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
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Description

This fantastic rock peak dominates Little Lakes Valley and has at least four high-quality routes to its name. Another High Sierra prerequisite summit.

Getting There

From 395 at Tom's Place drive west to Mosquito Flats. Hike along Little Lakes Valley trail to Long Lake, then follow a faint trail up to either Treasure Lakes or before reaching those lakes cut left and up to the desolate Dade Lake (4.25 miles, 1,300 feet of elevation gain).

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Creek Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 89
Northeast Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 125
North Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
East Arete
Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northeast Ridge
 89
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
North Arete
 125
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
East Arete
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 22 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Bear Creek Spire »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Allow approximately 4 hours for the approach if hiking at a fairly moderate pace. If you plan to climb car-to-car, count on a "Grade IV" day. Aug 20, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Galen Rowell's name will forever be associated with this peak. He was on the first ascent of the N Arete, S Face and also a different route on the South Face, solo. The latter was completed in 24 hours, car to car, including a 40 mile bike ride to get between trailheads! He also climbed it in winter. Aug 27, 2007
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
The story of Rowell jumping on his stashed road bike after doing a solo FA of the S. Face of Bear Creek is one of the most inspiring pieces of Sierra-lore there is. Very cool. Jul 23, 2010

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