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Areas in 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge

Blacksmith Peak 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Doodad, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Dragtooth 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Incredible Hulk 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 17
Juggernaut, The 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Little Slide Spires 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Matterhorn Peak 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Tower Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Whorl Mt. 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Elevation: 7,107 ft
GPS: 38.149, -119.377 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 143,105 total, 4,605/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 19, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Sawtooth Ridge area is the northern limit of the true High Sierra (it's in the Hoover Wilderness, which has been separated in MP for convenience). Nationally renowned for high country rock climbs being developed on Incredible Hulk, which appear in most recent years' American Alpine Journals, within sight of the popular hiking and climbing destination of Matterhorn Peak. Wild mountain play of all difficulties between may be had here.

Many start their treks from Horse Creek, or two other nearby trailheads , making Annett's Mono Village a popular, but not free, base of operations (see their wesbite for the latest details; it recently costed $10 to park at the marina there).

The Hoover Wilderness lies on the east slopes of Sawtooth Ridge, so overnight stays starting here require permits; see the website for information, or to reserve one in advance. Yosemite National Parks begins on the west slopes. Day trips into the protected areas from here are free.

Further reading:

A ClimberÂ’s Guide to the High Sierra (1954)

Getting There

From the town of Bridgeport on highway 395, turn south onto Twin Lakes Road, which winds south and west into the Sierra Nevada. This ends at Anett's Mono Village Resort. From here, the exact trail to take depends on your destination.

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Classic Climbing Routes at 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Arete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beeline
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil")
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka…
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Polish Route
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Escape from Poland
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
East Face Direct
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Positive Vibrations
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunspot Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Astrohulk
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tradewinds
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Sun
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
The Venturi Effect
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Solar Burn
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Solar Flare
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Arete Matterhorn Peak 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Beeline Incredible Hulk 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil") Incredible Hulk 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
North Buttress (aka the Dra… Dragtooth 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
The Polish Route Incredible Hulk 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Escape from Poland Incredible Hulk 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
East Face Direct Little Slide Spires > Outguard Spire 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Positive Vibrations Incredible Hulk 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Sunspot Dihedral Incredible Hulk 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Astrohulk Incredible Hulk 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Tradewinds Incredible Hulk 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Lost in the Sun Incredible Hulk 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Venturi Effect Incredible Hulk 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Solar Burn Incredible Hulk 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Solar Flare Incredible Hulk 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge »

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Stas Yurkevich
San Francisco, California
Stas Yurkevich   San Francisco, California
The Buckeye Hot spring is short drive and highly recommended after climbing Jul 5, 2016

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