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Routes in Bear Creek Spire

East Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: Norman Clyde - May 27, 1932
Page Views: 21,075 total, 148/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An excellent scramble on solid granite, with spectacular views along the summit ridge.

Start at the low point on the ridge (Peppermint Pass) and follow its crest, at first low angle, pass the large tower on the left and begin to climb steeper rock, using whatever weakness you can find, generally stay left of the ridge itself (which is soon joined by the North Arete). Below the summit ridge the rock is quite steep and you may want to use a rope. Gain the summit ridge and follow it to the required summit mantle.

Location

Approach:
From Dade Lake hike across benches and perhaps snow then more benches up to Peppermint Pass.

Descent:
Descend down Class 4 rocks on the West side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards and down snow/scree and steps back to Dade Lake.

Protection

Solo or rope and small rack for the upper section.
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  Easy 5th
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  Easy 5th
Solid, secure crack climbing in a stunning location. A single 30m rope is perfect for the raps. Aug 23, 2017
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
Climbed this on 7/9/17.

The route itself is almost snow free with some patches of snow on the face left of the ridge. The approach is snowed in starting around Gem Lakes, I brought some crampons and an ice axe and that helped.

The rap anchors near the summit are in good condition.

The descent is snowed in and has a few rap anchors to use if you want to get by the steep snow. Jul 15, 2017
For roped parties: A 30m rope is sufficient as you will probably be simulclimbing, mostly. Many long slings, and finger sized cams, but nothing larger than 2" needed. Rock shoes were nice for the 5th class moves. Car-to-car in a day should not be a problem for most, we're average hikers and did it in 12 hrs, only about 2 hrs were roped. Enjoy! Aug 17, 2016
First Solo. Very secure and not overly exposed.
Really Excellent; pick your own adventure, many options for the entire ridge.

After the first tower, 4th class with some optional 5th class, choose a line that looks the most fun. Staying on the apex of the ridge is cool.
Awesome jamming between wild juggy fins.
Gaining the summit block is 5th class.
Brought my climbing shoes, never put them on.

2.5 hrs car to NE Ridge
30 minutes to first tower (start of 5th)
45 minutes to meet up with N Arete
45 minutes to summit (after climbing to several false summits, oops) Sep 14, 2015
John Annand
  5.6
John Annand  
  5.6
Awesome climb with commanding views over the Little Lakes Valley but before attempting this climb please understand that your guidebook has lied to you. This is not a 4th class scramble. The Northeast Ridge is a 5.6 alpine climb with some areas of high exposure where an unprotected fall would be fatal. A rope and rack are absolutely mandatory. Jun 24, 2015
Keithb00ne
Las Vegas, NV
Keithb00ne   Las Vegas, NV
There are two ways to approach Dade lake. Option 1: You can take a climbers trail to the right just after Long Lake and follow the obvious path to the upper Treasure Lakes, then, I recommend gaining the ridge to the left, navigate through the greenery and follow this to Dade Lake. Option 2: You can follow the Morgan Pass trail to the lower Treasure Lake and head up the talus to gain Dade Lake. Option 2 is MUCH easier. We humped packs up Option 1 and down Option 2. If going overnight, I feel the best option is to camp at Chicken Foot Lake and go light up the talus sections. If you don't mind the talus and chose to overnight at Dade, we found the water in Dade to be very buggy without a filter. We were able to get much clearer water flowing out of the lake. Sep 3, 2013
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
This is a really cool route to do in winter. No ice or whatever, but the scenery is pretty sweet (see photo) Aug 26, 2012
Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
climbed this last week, phenomenal. did some 5.7 up high, last 5 pitches roped and stayed on the ridge. some steep snow and exciting talus for sure, ice axe handy for decent. the 4th class ridge, some 2/3 of the route had at least a 5.2 move on it... overhanging reach to ledge bellyflop with dirt and detritus... Jul 18, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Absolutely, positively, undeniably classic. Sep 23, 2008
426
426  
One of my favorite routes in the Sierras.... Mar 5, 2007