Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Galen Rowell, Jeanne Neale - August 1971
Page Views: 39,971 total · 212/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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A fine alpine rock climb with a wonderful prospect over Little Lakes Valley.

P1 5.6. Snowline dependent, cracks in slabs to a ledge where it gets steeper.

P2 5.8. Steep flake crack on the left to a ledge.

P3 5.7. Up and right over flakes to where the arete relents a little. Route-finding can be tricky.

P4/5 Easy 5th. Up the crest of the arete in a wonderful position to a ledge below the final impasse, a steep off-width crack.

P6 5.8 crux. The crack awkwardly.

P7 Easy 5th. Tunnel through to the other side of the ridge.

To finish, join with the Northeast Ridge and follow it to the top, or it might be more in keeping with the rest of the route to doggedly stay on the very crest of the ridge/arete to the summit. Either will deposit you on the crest of the summit ridge and just excellent and scenic scrambling/climbing for a pitch or two.

Don't forget to mantle onto the summit block!


From Dade Lake hike across benches and then snow up to just right of the lowest point of the buttress (37.37028, -118.76723).
(5 miles, 2,500 ft from Little Lakes Trailhead to route start)

Descend down Class 4 rocks on the East side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards at the notch. There are two optional rappels down the snow/scree that bring you 2/3 down the slope. Follow steps back to Dade Lake.

(Due to lots of talus, there are little good bivys above Gem Lakes until you reach Northside of Dade Lake.)

GPS Route


Standard alpine rack. Ice axe and crampons seasonal.