Avg: 3.3 from 80 votes
Routes in Mt. Sill
|North Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Swiss Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dick Jones, Spencer Austin, Ruth Dyer, Ray Ingwersen, Joe Momyer - July 1938|
|Page Views:||19,821 total, 138/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Owen on Mar 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAlthough not quite as spectacular as its namesake climb on the Matterhorn, the rock is so much better, in a more remote setting too.
From Sam Mack Meadow climb the left-hand gully at the back of the meadow, bear right under the Palisade Glacier moraine, through another shallow gully just to its right (Thunderbolt Peak framed in the notch) and so gradually gain the crest of the moraine. Follow it until it peters out (wonderful views of North Pal) then work across the Glacier towards Glacier Notch - climb the Glacier Notch couloir (loose in low snow). About 1.5 hours from Sam Mack Meadow.
Wander across to, then up the L-Shaped Couloir until a convenient place is found to access the ridge. One usually ends up a pitch before the steepening. Although the arete can be climbed from much father down.
The climb consists of about 6 pitches of moderate climbing up steep steps using cracks in perfect granite. The crux is at P4 where an impasse forces a tricky little sideways excursion onto an exposed slab on the right, followed by a steep crack at the back, after which two more pitches lead to the summit.