Elevation: 5,458 ft
GPS: 37.259, -112.973 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,234,707 total · 9,468/month
Shared By: Aaron Shupp on May 30, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Day Use Climbing is Currently Open

Description

Zion is a spectacular park with excellent routes for a wide range of ability levels. It is most noted for its long wall routes on amazing sandstone. There are many good entry-level grade IV's and V's like Prodigal Sun, Touchstone Wall, and Moonlight Buttress. There are also many challenging lines that will test the seasoned wall rat. There are plenty of short, one or two pitch routes for those who don't want to venture too high off the deck.

As a National Park, Zion charges $35 for a seven-day pass or $85 for an annual pass (good at all National Parks and covers entry fees at most other federally-managed lands). A $15 fee is charged for a bivy permit for each wall you do. Overnight bivy permits are obtained from the rangers at the visitors center. Or you can book online using the Zion online permits. You still have to pick them up but at least it is booked.

Beginning sometime in March all cars have to be parked at the Visitors Center. Shuttle buses have to be ridden to access anything in the canyon during the high season. The shuttles are efficient and frequent (about every 10 minutes). As of 2021 they are by online reservations. Reservations are done online in two batches. The first batch is about a month prior and a second batch at 5pm the day before (see recreation.gov for up to date details). Shuttles run from 7am to 7:15pm. The last shuttle leaves the end of the canyon at 7:15pm. If you miss it it's a long walk out. The Zion Lodge does not offer private vans, but may have in the past. Bicycles may be a good alternative. As well there is a permit system (see bivy permits above) that allows climbers to drive into the park.

There is camping at the Watchman Campground inside the park, as well as lodging at the Zion Lodge (not for the standard, dirt-bag wall rat). Free camping is available in many areas just outside of the park in the Springdale and Rockville area. Some of these sites have been really trashed. Feel free to clean them up so that free camping continues.

Springdale is loaded with all of the necessary amenities for a long stay. There are restaurants, grocery stores, showers, hotels, bars, and even a gear shop.

The weather is stinking hot by May. There are sometimes nice cool spells, but the most comfortable weather usually occurs in the spring and fall. There is about a 3,000 to 4,000 foot vertical rise between valley floor and canyon rim. For this reason, weather can be different depending on your current elevation.

Getting There

Zion is located in the southwestern corner of Utah between St. George and Cedar City.

Zion has 4 access points for climbing, Kolob Canyons, Kolob Terrace, a south entrance and an east entrance.

Coming from the North, take exit 27 off of Interstate 15 going to Toquerville on Highway 17. 17 joins Highway 9.
Continue West on Highway 9 following the obvious Zion National Park signs to Springdale and the main park entrance.

Coming from the south, take exit 16 off of Interstate 15 onto Highway 9 headed towards Hurricane. Continue west on Highway 9 to the park entrance.

372 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zion National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
 122
Spaceshot
Aid 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
 263
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)
Trad, Aid 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 100
Prodigal Sun
Aid 9 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
 236
Touchstone Wall
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 372
The Headache
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 460
1/2 Route
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3
 85
Desert Shield
Trad, Aid 9 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 232
Dost Mitra
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 142
Smashmouth
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 85
Crimson King
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 161
Shune's Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 337
Namaste
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 98
Huecos Rancheros
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 99
Monkeyfinger
Trad 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 101
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)
Trad 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
 122
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Aid 8 pitches
The Moonlight Buttress (Cle… Moonlight Buttress
 263
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Trad, Aid 10 pitches
Prodigal Sun Angel's Landing
 100
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Aid 9 pitches
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
 236
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid 8 pitches
The Headache Mt Carmel Tunnel > Headache Area
 372
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
1/2 Route Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 460
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Desert Shield Desert Shield Buttress
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3 Trad, Aid 9 pitches
Dost Mitra Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 232
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Smashmouth Confluence
 142
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Crimson King Confluence
 85
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
 161
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 8 pitches
Namaste Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 337
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Huecos Rancheros Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 98
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinawava
 99
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 9 pitches
The Moonlight Buttress (Free) Moonlight Buttress
 101
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Zion National Park »

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