Zion National Park Rock Climbing
Areas in Zion National Park
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Day Use Climbing is Currently Open
Zion is a spectacular park with excellent routes for a wide range of ability levels. It is most noted for its long wall routes on amazing sandstone. There are many good entry-level grade IV's and V's like Prodigal Sun, Touchstone Wall, and Moonlight Buttress. There are also many challenging lines that will test the seasoned wall rat. There are plenty of short, one or two pitch routes for those who don't want to venture too high off the deck.
As a National Park, Zion charges $35 for a seven-day pass or $80 for an annual pass (good at all National Parks and covers entry fees at most other federally-managed lands). A $15 fee is charged for a bivy permit for each wall you do. Overnight bivy permits are obtained from the rangers at the visitors center. Or you can book online using the Zion online permits. You still have to pick them up but at least it is booked.
Beginning sometime in March all cars have to be parked at the Visitors Center. Shuttle buses have to be ridden to access anything in the canyon during the high season. As of Spring 2022, you no longer need reservation for Shuttles from the Visitor Center, they are free but are requiring masks while on board (they're under Federal mandates, like the TSA). Shuttles run from 7am to 7:15pm. The shuttles are efficient and frequent (≤10 min wait from any given stop, including the Visitor Center). The last shuttle leaves the end of the canyon at 7:15pm, making its final stops down the canyon after that. If you miss the last shuttle, be prepared for several miles of hiking in the dark. The Zion Lodge does not offer private vans, but may have in the past. Bicycles may be a good alternative. As well there is a permit system (see bivy permits above) that allows climbers to drive into the park.
There is camping at the Watchman Campground inside the park (reservations are required and hard to get), as well as lodging at the Zion Lodge (not for the standard, dirt-bag wall rat). Free camping is increasingly limited near the Park; dispersed camping is not allowed in Springdale or Rockville, but some options may be found around Virgin. Some of these sites have been really trashed. Feel free to clean them up so that free camping continues.
Springdale is loaded with all of the necessary amenities for a long stay. There are restaurants, grocery stores, showers, hotels, bars, and even a gear shop.
The weather is stinking hot by May. There are sometimes nice cool spells, but the most comfortable weather usually occurs in the spring and fall. There is about a 3,000 to 4,000 foot vertical rise between valley floor and canyon rim. For this reason, weather can be different depending on your current elevation.
Zion has 4 access points for climbing, Kolob Canyons, Kolob Terrace, a south entrance and an east entrance.
Coming from the North, take exit 27 off of Interstate 15 going to Toquerville on Highway 17. 17 joins Highway 9.
Continue West on Highway 9 following the obvious Zion National Park signs to Springdale and the main park entrance.
Coming from the south, take exit 16 off of Interstate 15 onto Highway 9 headed towards Hurricane. Continue west on Highway 9 to the park entrance.
Classic Climbing Routes at Zion National Park
|Route Name||Location||Star Rating||Difficulty||Date|
|● Spaceshot||Leaning Wall||
|5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Aid 8 pitches|
|● The Moonlight Buttress (Cle…||Moonlight Buttress||
|5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Trad, Aid 10 pitches|
|● Touchstone Wall||Cerberus Gendarme||
|5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C2 Trad, Aid 8 pitches|
|● The Headache||Mt Carmel Tunnel > Headache Area||
|5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches|
|● 1/2 Route||Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall||
|5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport|
|● Desert Shield||Desert Shield Buttress||
|5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3 Trad, Aid 9 pitches|
|● Enter The Dragon||Mt Carmel Tunnel > Kung Fu Theater||
|5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches|
|● Dost Mitra||Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall||
|5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport|
|5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches|
|● Crimson King||Confluence||
|5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad|
|● Shune's Buttress||Red Arch Mountain||
|5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 8 pitches|
|● Namaste||Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall||
|5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport|
|● Huecos Rancheros||Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall||
|5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport|
|● Monkeyfinger||Temple of Sinawava||
|5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 9 pitches|
|● The Moonlight Buttress (Free)||Moonlight Buttress||
|5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches|
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