Elevation: 5,458 ft
GPS: 37.259, -112.973 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,502,122 total · 10,176/month
Shared By: Aaron Shupp on May 30, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Day Use Climbing is Currently Open

Description

Zion is a spectacular park with excellent routes for a wide range of ability levels. It is most noted for its long wall routes on amazing sandstone. There are many good entry-level grade IV's and V's like Prodigal Sun, Touchstone Wall, and Moonlight Buttress. There are also many challenging lines that will test the seasoned wall rat. There are plenty of short, one or two pitch routes for those who don't want to venture too high off the deck.

As a National Park, Zion charges $35 for a seven-day pass or $85 for an annual pass (good at all National Parks and covers entry fees at most other federally-managed lands). A $15 fee is charged for a bivy permit for each wall you do. Overnight bivy permits are obtained from the rangers at the visitors center. Or you can book online using the Zion online permits. You still have to pick them up but at least it is booked.

Beginning sometime in March all cars have to be parked at the Visitors Center. Shuttle buses have to be ridden to access anything in the canyon during the high season. As of Spring 2022, you no longer need reservation for Shuttles from the Visitor Center, they are free but are requiring masks while on board (they're under Federal mandates, like the TSA). Shuttles run from 7am to 7:15pm. The shuttles are efficient and frequent (≤10 min wait from any given stop, including the Visitor Center). The last shuttle leaves the end of the canyon at 7:15pm, making its final stops down the canyon after that. If you miss the last shuttle, be prepared for several miles of hiking in the dark. The Zion Lodge does not offer private vans, but may have in the past. Bicycles may be a good alternative. As well there is a permit system (see bivy permits above) that allows climbers to drive into the park. 

There is camping at the Watchman Campground inside the park (reservations are required and hard to get), as well as lodging at the Zion Lodge (not for the standard, dirt-bag wall rat). Free camping is increasingly limited near the Park; dispersed camping is not allowed in Springdale or Rockville, but some options may be found around Virgin. Some of these sites have been really trashed. Feel free to clean them up so that free camping continues.

Springdale is loaded with all of the necessary amenities for a long stay. There are restaurants, grocery stores, showers, hotels, bars, and even a gear shop.

The weather is stinking hot by May. There are sometimes nice cool spells, but the most comfortable weather usually occurs in the spring and fall. There is about a 3,000 to 4,000 foot vertical rise between valley floor and canyon rim. For this reason, weather can be different depending on your current elevation.

Getting There

Zion is located in the southwestern corner of Utah between St. George and Cedar City.

Zion has 4 access points for climbing, Kolob Canyons, Kolob Terrace, a south entrance and an east entrance.

Coming from the North, take exit 27 off of Interstate 15 going to Toquerville on Highway 17. 17 joins Highway 9.
Continue West on Highway 9 following the obvious Zion National Park signs to Springdale and the main park entrance.

Coming from the south, take exit 16 off of Interstate 15 onto Highway 9 headed towards Hurricane. Continue west on Highway 9 to the park entrance.

386 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Zion National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
 128
Spaceshot
Aid 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
 279
The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)
Trad, Aid 10 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2
 254
Touchstone Wall
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 408
The Headache
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 514
1/2 Route
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3
 91
Desert Shield
Trad, Aid 9 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 90
Enter The Dragon
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 265
Dost Mitra
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 163
Smashmouth
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 97
Crimson King
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 170
Shune's Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 376
Namaste
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 108
Huecos Rancheros
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 108
Monkeyfinger
Trad 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 119
The Moonlight Buttress (Free)
Trad 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spaceshot Leaning Wall
 128
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Aid 8 pitches
The Moonlight Buttress (Cle… Moonlight Buttress
 279
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Trad, Aid 10 pitches
Touchstone Wall Cerberus Gendarme
 254
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid 8 pitches
The Headache Mt Carmel Tunnel > Headache Area
 408
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
1/2 Route Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 514
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Desert Shield Desert Shield Buttress
 91
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C3 Trad, Aid 9 pitches
Enter The Dragon Mt Carmel Tunnel > Kung Fu Theater
 90
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Dost Mitra Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 265
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Smashmouth Confluence
 163
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Crimson King Confluence
 97
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Shune's Buttress Red Arch Mountain
 170
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 8 pitches
Namaste Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 376
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Huecos Rancheros Kolob Canyon > S Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall
 108
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Monkeyfinger Temple of Sinawava
 108
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 9 pitches
The Moonlight Buttress (Free) Moonlight Buttress
 119
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Zion National Park »

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