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Routes in Ataxia Tower

Ashtar Command T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Minnesota T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P.C. Thug T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warzone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Woods Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Tainio
Page Views: 27,876 total, 193/month
Shared By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ashtar is the located on the prominent tower on the west side of the Mount Carmel Highway Tunnel, across from the ranger kiosk.

The first pitch will take everything on your rack: cams, nuts, hexes, and TCUs. It is mostly crack climbing for the first 75 ft then climbing on small ledges and crimps to first set of anchors. The second pitch is mostly bolted with some exposed, crimpy 5.9 climbing.

The second pitch traverses right and a .5 is handy for the runout between the anchors and the first bolt. There can be a lot of drag on this second pitch and communication can also be an issue. Very fun! Great view and exposure!!

Protection

Pretty much everything will fit in this climb. Bring a selection from nuts to a #3 cam. Lots of slings to prevent drag and about 14 draws for the second pitch.

Approach

Park on the last switchback before the tunnel and walk up the south side of the road till you get to a small trail that takes you to the base of the tower. (Approximately 5 minutes.)

Descent

Rap off to rock right to two other sets of rap anchors. Three raps to ground.
Harrison Schutt
Missoula, MT
  5.9
Harrison Schutt   Missoula, MT
  5.9
Best 5.9 Ive ever climbed. Rap straight down 3 times (left of the climb) and not to the middle anchors on the first pitch. Thats how we got our rope stuck. Enjoy! Nov 25, 2017
two chains
Fucken Zion
  5.6
two chains   Fucken Zion
  5.6
As of today the loose hanger was tightend with a wrench. Come on people keep an adjustable wrech on your rack. Be part of the solution not part of the problem.


Single rack to #2
2 70m ropes= 1 double rope rappel and your on the ground.
Saw no .5 placement to first bolt on 2nd P. Just run it out its 5.0 to first bolt. Aug 13, 2017
Jeremy Lubkin
Boulder, CO
Jeremy Lubkin   Boulder, CO
There is a loose hanger/nut on P2 just as the traverse ends and it goes upwards. I finger-tightened the nut but if some nice someone would fix it proper I'm sure it would be appreciated. May 3, 2017
Andy Bussell
Los Angeles, California
 
Andy Bussell   Los Angeles, California
 
Climbed this route on Saturday 4/29. A little chilly in the wind and shade but not too bad. Great route! The first pitch has some nice sinker hand jams the just feel good, though the jugs make it so that you don't really have to use the crack much. The second pitch is clearly the harder pitch, though it's really not too hard. A couple of mantle moves a few feet above the bolts in 3 spots that you wouldn't really want to fall on but it's not hard. May 1, 2017
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Goes in 1 70m for the so inclined. Single rack, if that for the first pitch, then a yellow Metolius below the second anchors for P1 with a runner, before traversing into P2. I extended runners on a bunch of the P2 bolts to make the rope run straight. Very fun this way!

We brought a 70m tag-line/half rope to rappel the whole tower as well (that is, two 70s to rappel from top of P2 to the base). Dec 2, 2016
Marlene Machemy
Squamish
Marlene Machemy   Squamish
Pitch 2 is super exposed and fun! You can rap from the top set of anchors down to the ground with one 70m rope. May 26, 2016
the professor
  5.9 PG13
the professor  
  5.9 PG13
Very nice position, rock, and movement. The 5.9 mantle near the start of the 2nd pitch is a bit exciting. Wouldn't want to fall there. Oct 20, 2014
scottso
St. George, Utah
scottso   St. George, Utah
Brought a single set of cams from blue TCU to BD #3 and had to stop at first set of anchors. If you are a 5.9 climber bring 2 sets of cams. I will bring 2 sets of TCUs when I do it again. Apr 15, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
great climb. placed up to one BD #1 for P1 (didn't place any stoppers; next time won't bother with them). P2 started with a 0.5 cam halfway to the first bolt, then clipped that first bolt and 11 others, for a total of 12 bolt clips on P2 (having skipped one of the two closely bolted ones mentioned above and counting the last topside bolt protecting the topout) Mar 6, 2014
Alec LaLonde
  5.9
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9
If you like the second pitch of this one go do Made to be Broken. Similar-style climbing, but five pitches and a little stouter. Feb 21, 2013
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Stop at the first set of anchors for a much more comfortable stance if you can convince yourself to stop. We rapped from top in one rap with 2 60 meters with a few feet to spare. Oct 16, 2011
skeers
  5.9
skeers  
  5.9
Unbelievable!!! The first pitch was just another classic crack with pro! but leading the second sport pitch was "mind bottling". A 5.9 with this kind of bolt spacing, amazing exposure, and the chance for passer byes to ooh and aha. This equals total classic..... A definite tic for anyone who comes to Zion. Sep 3, 2011
This is a really rad climb. totally worth it
the crack is bomber the whole way and takes ssome of the best gear i've placed. the crimpy second pitch is a blast as you cant see or hear the belay and you jsut have to climb. its pretty slabby and the holds are chalked up pretty well.
i liked running out to the first bolt on the second pitch- adds to the experience
its a great tower.
does anyone knon what the anchors on the back side are to? Dec 12, 2009
George Vigeon
Bend, OR
  5.8+
George Vigeon   Bend, OR
  5.8+
Super fun sandstone climbing and the crack takes everything. The traverse to the first both is exciting for both and the crowd that congregates because of traffic issues in the tunnel are always entertaining. You can hear everything they say, but they can't hear you. My favorite comment was, "Why in the world are those two up there?" Communication issues are resolved buy yelling at the wall behind you at the top, acoustics send the sound to the belayer rather than out into the grater canyon. Jun 6, 2008
Gaar, thanks for the clarification!
--Mark May 8, 2008
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Mark, the two bolts 1 ft apart are supposed to be an intermediate anchor. Both bolts are bomber. Most parties just skip them, but on a windy or loud day it is help full, for communication May 4, 2008
There are 14 bolts on the second pitch. Two of the bolts are 1 foot apart which made me think that the first ascensionist thought one of those bolts was not bomber. I clipped both bolts and climbed on.
The second and third rappel stations are left of the route as you face the route (climbers left). I thought I would be able to rap the route itself but I found that a single 60 meter rope would not reach the anchors at the top of pitch 1 from the top of pitch 2. It was approximately 15 feet short of the chains. The second pitch is more like 110-120 feet of vertical distance. Note that the three rappel stations use webbing instead of chains. Also, a 60 meter rope just makes it to the ground from the third rappel station. A 50 meter rope will be too short.
Both pitches are fun! And yes, you will entertain the crowds waiting to get through the Mt. Carmel Tunnel. May 4, 2008
k. riemondy
Boulder, Co
  5.9
k. riemondy   Boulder, Co
  5.9
A dozen video cameras is a good number to expect when climbing this route. Maybe more in the summer season when it gets hot. Excellent exposure on the second pitch, with nice shade most of time. Oct 23, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
A real great climb, short approach and fun moves. Takes great pro the whole way. There are actually two sets of chains on the official "first" pitch with the first set about 75 ft off the deck and the second at the end of the crack as is continues to thin before traversing onto the bolted pitch. This is most likely to faciltate rapping off as my 60 meter rope was about 15 feet short of being able to rap off the top set of chains. And yes, prepare to star in some tourists home movie. (Another nice feature of this climb is that it is in the shade in the afternoon!) hmm..and i guess it could be good first lead if you don't mind breaking in at 5.9? Sep 30, 2006