Gary Schmidt Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] A real great climb, short approach and fun moves. Takes great pro the whole way. There are actually two sets of chains on the official "first" pitch with the first set about 75 ft off the deck and the second at the end of the crack as is continues to thin before traversing onto the bolted pitch. This is most likely to faciltate rapping off as my 60 meter rope was about 15 feet short of being able to rap off the top set of chains. And yes, prepare to star in some tourists home movie. (Another nice feature of this climb is that it is in the shade in the afternoon!) hmm..and i guess it could be good first lead if you don't mind breaking in at 5.9? Sep 30, 2006

k. riemondy Denver, Co   5.9

[Hide Comment] A dozen video cameras is a good number to expect when climbing this route. Maybe more in the summer season when it gets hot. Excellent exposure on the second pitch, with nice shade most of time. Oct 23, 2006

Mark and Stacy Egan

[Hide Comment] There are 14 bolts on the second pitch. Two of the bolts are 1 foot apart which made me think that the first ascensionist thought one of those bolts was not bomber. I clipped both bolts and climbed on. The second and third rappel stations are left of the route as you face the route (climbers left). I thought I would be able to rap the route itself but I found that a single 60 meter rope would not reach the anchors at the top of pitch 1 from the top of pitch 2. It was approximately 15 feet short of the chains. The second pitch is more like 110-120 feet of vertical distance. Note that the three rappel stations use webbing instead of chains. Also, a 60 meter rope just makes it to the ground from the third rappel station. A 50 meter rope will be too short. Both pitches are fun! And yes, you will entertain the crowds waiting to get through the Mt. Carmel Tunnel. May 4, 2008

Gaar Springdale / Zion UT / Moab

[Hide Comment] Mark, the two bolts 1 ft apart are supposed to be an intermediate anchor. Both bolts are bomber. Most parties just skip them, but on a windy or loud day it is help full, for communication May 4, 2008

Mark and Stacy Egan

[Hide Comment] Gaar, thanks for the clarification! --Mark May 8, 2008

George Vigeon Bend, OR   5.8+

[Hide Comment] Super fun sandstone climbing and the crack takes everything. The traverse to the first both is exciting for both and the crowd that congregates because of traffic issues in the tunnel are always entertaining. You can hear everything they say, but they can't hear you. My favorite comment was, "Why in the world are those two up there?" Communication issues are resolved buy yelling at the wall behind you at the top, acoustics send the sound to the belayer rather than out into the grater canyon. Jun 6, 2008

JayBrink

[Hide Comment] This is a really rad climb. totally worth it the crack is bomber the whole way and takes ssome of the best gear i've placed. the crimpy second pitch is a blast as you cant see or hear the belay and you jsut have to climb. its pretty slabby and the holds are chalked up pretty well. i liked running out to the first bolt on the second pitch- adds to the experience its a great tower. does anyone knon what the anchors on the back side are to? Dec 12, 2009

skeers   5.9

[Hide Comment] Unbelievable!!! The first pitch was just another classic crack with pro! but leading the second sport pitch was "mind bottling". A 5.9 with this kind of bolt spacing, amazing exposure, and the chance for passer byes to ooh and aha. This equals total classic..... A definite tic for anyone who comes to Zion. Sep 3, 2011

Slay er Ogden

[Hide Comment] Stop at the first set of anchors for a much more comfortable stance if you can convince yourself to stop. We rapped from top in one rap with 2 60 meters with a few feet to spare. Oct 16, 2011

Alec L   5.9

[Hide Comment] If you like the second pitch of this one go do Made to be Broken. Similar-style climbing, but five pitches and a little stouter. Feb 21, 2013

Sean Oak Park, CA

[Hide Comment] great climb. placed up to one BD #1 for P1 (didn't place any stoppers; next time won't bother with them). P2 started with a 0.5 cam halfway to the first bolt, then clipped that first bolt and 11 others, for a total of 12 bolt clips on P2 (having skipped one of the two closely bolted ones mentioned above and counting the last topside bolt protecting the topout) Mar 6, 2014

scottso Smith St. George, Utah

[Hide Comment] Brought a single set of cams from blue TCU to BD #3 and had to stop at first set of anchors. If you are a 5.9 climber bring 2 sets of cams. I will bring 2 sets of TCUs when I do it again. Apr 15, 2014

the professor   5.9 PG13

[Hide Comment] Very nice position, rock, and movement. The 5.9 mantle near the start of the 2nd pitch is a bit exciting. Wouldn't want to fall there. Oct 20, 2014

Marlene Machemy Squamish

[Hide Comment] Pitch 2 is super exposed and fun! You can rap from the top set of anchors down to the ground with one 70m rope. May 26, 2016

Chris Mutzel Seattle, Washington

[Hide Comment] Goes in 1 70m for the so inclined. Single rack, if that for the first pitch, then a yellow Metolius below the second anchors for P1 with a runner, before traversing into P2. I extended runners on a bunch of the P2 bolts to make the rope run straight. Very fun this way! We brought a 70m tag-line/half rope to rappel the whole tower as well (that is, two 70s to rappel from top of P2 to the base). Dec 2, 2016

Andy Bussell Los Angeles, California

[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on Saturday 4/29. A little chilly in the wind and shade but not too bad. Great route! The first pitch has some nice sinker hand jams the just feel good, though the jugs make it so that you don't really have to use the crack much. The second pitch is clearly the harder pitch, though it's really not too hard. A couple of mantle moves a few feet above the bolts in 3 spots that you wouldn't really want to fall on but it's not hard. May 1, 2017

Jeremy Lubkin Worldwide Wanderer

[Hide Comment] There is a loose hanger/nut on P2 just as the traverse ends and it goes upwards. I finger-tightened the nut but if some nice someone would fix it proper I'm sure it would be appreciated. May 3, 2017

two chains Fucken Zion   5.6

[Hide Comment] As of today the loose hanger was tightend with a wrench. Come on people keep an adjustable wrech on your rack. Be part of the solution not part of the problem. Single rack to #2 2 70m ropes= 1 double rope rappel and your on the ground. Saw no .5 placement to first bolt on 2nd P. Just run it out its 5.0 to first bolt. Aug 13, 2017

Harrison Schutt Missoula, MT   5.9

[Hide Comment] Best 5.9 Ive ever climbed. Rap straight down 3 times (left of the climb) and not to the middle anchors on the first pitch. Thats how we got our rope stuck. Enjoy! Nov 25, 2017

Luke L cascades   5.9

[Hide Comment] Led from first chains onward and a 60 barely reaches the top using some runners to extend bolts over the top to belay. Hopefully the rain soon washes off all the silly X marks someone put on all the perfectly good, solid slopers. Oct 26, 2019

Greg Buker Salt lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Such a fun climb! Led this with a single rack and I thought it would have been nice to have a few extra small cams (like a BD .5, .75). Also, with a 70m and rope stretch, rapping lookers left of the route, we were just barely able to skip the 2nd rap anchors, going straight to the 3rd anchors and down to ground in 2 raps. Oct 27, 2019

Robin Baker

[Hide Comment] We rappelled from the P2 anchor on the summit w/chains and were a few feet short of the upper P1 anchor right before the traverse with one 70m rope. I was able to reach down and clip the anchor at my feet with the knots jammed in my ATC, but next time I'd rap left of the route or bring two ropes. Nov 21, 2019

Ted Pinson Chicago, IL

[Hide Comment] Worth noting that the second pitch is “sport” seemingly by Zion standards. Was a bit of a rude awakening for us as the “thin” crux others mentioned is pulled with an extended draw well below your feet. Luckily it is somewhat easy to get to that first bolt and bail if you need to, but worth noting if you’re expecting a “sport” route from St George. Apr 4, 2021

Thomas Chapman Telluride, CO

[Hide Comment] twin 60s reach all the way to the ground Nov 30, 2021

Larissa Zhou

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb! If you climb P1 with a single rack, use the bigger pieces for the bottom half, which is much more varied in width. The top half of P1 only takes small pieces. Recommend doing this in 3 rappels if you have a single 60 or 70m rope. We tried to do it in 2 raps with one 70-m rope and, on the first rappel, ended up a meter short of the bolts at the top of P1. I had some cams on my harness and used them in the crack as a moving trad anchor as I down climbed to the actual bolted anchor. It turned out OK but save yourself the added risk and just use the higher set of rap anchors (located climber's right, in the middle of P2 route). Nov 30, 2021

Stevie Nacho Utah

[Hide Comment] FYI: this route can be climbed entirely on passive gear (hexes and nuts) if one wants to up the adventure Dec 1, 2021

Stacey Seidl CA

[Hide Comment] Approach was short and sweet. Great route with a good variety of crack, face and slab. Crack felt easier than 5.9. I will dream about that crack - The hand jams were perfect. Slammer jams. Stuck cam low on route, first pitch. Good luck getting it out. Top out was on a nice Vista that you can watch all the jabroonis in line for the tunnel :) May 24, 2022

Iñaki Gutierrez

[Hide Comment] This was my first multi-pitch climb and also first crack climbing after doing a couple of months of just bouldering. The crack climbing can be rough but manageable. Very fun stuff and really great view. Its right next to the road so you can see some people on their cars waving and taking pics of you, like a celebrity. Sep 21, 2023

Jacob Alongi

[Hide Comment] as of today about half the bolts on route are spinners, including the rap anchors and I would question falling on them. fun route. first time climbing in zion. 3 days ago