Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve Chardon and Dave Jones September 1980
Page Views: 28,789 total · 186/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Considered The Rostrum of Zion. I think it's close, but not quite. Does have the same grade, a bit shorter, but has a nice wide pitch to it to boot.

After scrambling to the base, the first pitch starts up an obvious left-facing corner with a wide pod at the start.

P1 (5.11+) Climb the wide pod to the long section of sustained 1-1.5" crack. Ledge halfway up with anchors on the left, but you can continue to the ledge, about 160' up. The last 20' of the pitch are classic Zion funky climbing, hard 5.11.

Belay on ledge with fixed nut and bolt with rap slings.

P2 (5.9 or 5.10) Two options: Climb a groove/chimney/funky thing for 60' to another ledge at 5.9 or step right to a drilled pin and climb the nice 5.10 finger and thin hands crack to the same ledge.

I prefer the second option.

P3 (5.10++) Get yer offwidth skills and groveling gloves on for this one, and leave your helmet behind so you don't get it stuck. Chimney up the obvious corner until it starts to pinch down—don't clip the bolt in the bowels, instead place a #4 Camalot (old) up above your head and try and figure out how to slide out to the outside of the bombay and switch to stacks and fist jams. After this the pitch gets way easier: sustained hands and big hands.

Three belay options: short pitch on drilled pin anchors on right; longer pitch on hanging stance with bolts on left (150') or simul-climb the last 30 feet of easier chimney to chockstone belay off of bolts (215') at top of chimney where the sort-of tower meets the main cliff.

P4 (5.11-) Clip a bolt up and left of anchor and continue face climbing up and left on positive holds to obvious bolted belay near arete. 40' long—not much gear after bolt, but way easier to anchor.

P5 (5.11+) One of the best pitches anywhere! Downclimb from anchor about 10' then step left around arete and span out to the finger crack on the face. Backclean your gear for about 15 feet; not too hard, mostly fingers with some feet. Crank up the steepening finger to big finger to tight hands crack through the roof, with the occasional face hold. Go for another 50' over the roof to an alcove with a bolt and add a #1 or #2 camalot for the anchor. About 100' long.

P6 (5.9) Handcracks and face holds forever on this left-trending, 165' pitch. Watch out for bad rock; climb carefully. Belay off of as many small scrub oaks and manzanitas as you can tie off, and sit off the edge, belaying off your harness.

Protection

Big desert rack. Sizes in aliens and camalots.
1 blue, 2 green, 3 yellow, 2 red aliens
2 purple, 3 green, 3 red, 3 yellow, 3 blue, 1 3.5, 1 4 camalot
Set of nuts-I love and always use HB offsets-they come in handy in the weird Zion cracks

Location

Red Arch Mountain. Park at the grotto, walk up the drainage and then go up to the right to the north facing side of the mountain.

Descent

Walk up and right about 15' to the bolted rap anchor. Bring some extra webbing to back up the occasional shitty sling.

190' first rap to a station down and left.

125' rap to either the top of the chimney or out to the pitch 4 belay near the arete. If you rap the chimney be prepare to get your ropes stuck; you may want to swing out to the arete anchor.

Two raps down to the big ledge, then one rope-stretcher to the ground. Watch your ends, it is 210', but you can break it up into two.

Photos