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Routes in Red Arch Mountain

Bits and Pieces T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Awaking 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4
Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shune's Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wigs in Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Jones & Geoff Scherer, 1994
Page Views: 2,412 total · 20/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is another recommended route on Red Arch Mountain. A more adventurous alternative to Shunes. A lower corner crack is connected via face climbing to the prominent upper crack left of Shune's.

P1-3...Follow corner via fist & offwidths to a ledge (5.10+).
P4...Move left out on the face past 2 bolts to easier climbing and a ledge (5.11+).
P5...Wandering face climbing leads to a bolted belay on the face, to the right of a dirty corner system (5.11, some moss & dirt).
P6-9...Move right to single face crack which is followed via easier/classic climbing to the top (mostly hand cracks).

See Topo at visitors center


Begin about 100' left of Shune's Buttress in a long, striking right facing corner.


Standard Zion free rack with extra #3 & 4 camalots.


Travis McClinchey
Squamish, BC
Travis McClinchey   Squamish, BC
We got on this route the other day I thought I'd provide a few comments. It is a good route with a few high quality pitches. However, a few spots are very overgrown and need a scrubbing - mostly P5 and P7. This would drastically improve the quality of experience on the route. It is currently climbable, just not that pleasant for those couple pitches.

We had doubles to 6" with an extra 4" piece and this seemed to work fine.

For any short leaders, be careful on the crux pitch as you're forced to make a big step with a potentially dangerous swing in a corner if you fall. If you're average height or taller, this move is easy. Nov 1, 2014
For the approach-you can't get to the base of the climb from the base of Shune's. You kind of have to stay low.

The pitch 5 was covered with moss and very sandy. We linked pitch 5 & 6, climbed pitch 7 to the top of OW on pitch 8, and then climbed to the top. I enjoyed the route expect the vegetated pitch, which scared the crap out of me! Dec 3, 2012
Good going Zach.

Actually, I've talked this climb up, quietly, since I put it up. Over the years I've learned that very few people are willing to climb routes they haven't seen in a magazine, so I've largely given up on pushing routes. I'd say the position of the upper pitches of Rites of Passage are as dramatic as those on Shunes. The lead-off across the chicken-head face up high has quite the pucker factor even though it isn't that hard. Geoff took a whipper 30 foot leader fall on the FA and I, whimpering, had to take over. An attention grabber.

The mossy pitch can be easily cleaned up if someone is willing to take up a plastic floor scrubber -- the rock under the moss is hard as nails. Oct 15, 2010
I say one of Daves best kept secrets. Way clean except for the mossy pitch super good rock and totally classic climbing. Hardly any small gear needed.4 bd camalots for the first pitch plus a wc 5 and wc 6 plus a 6 to back up the single bolt belay on the first pitch.we thought the crux ow was right off the belay on the second pitch protects with a 6. I thoroughly enjoyed the route thanks Dave. Sep 13, 2010

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