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Bits and Pieces
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 14
votes
Routes in Red Arch Mountain
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Bits and Pieces T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Booked Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Red Awakening 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 |
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Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shune's Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wigs in Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Phil Gleason, Jon Gleason, Dave Jones- April 1994. |
| Page Views: | 4,266 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Feb 24, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is destined to become a Zion classic. During the first ascent the route was littered with "bits and pieces" of airplane left over from a crash that occurred sometime in the 1970's.
P1 (5.8, 100') Climb the obvious hand crack in a small right-facing corner. Belay at the obvious ledge where the crack ends.
P2 (4th class, 150') Step down and left crossing a chimney. After gaining a bushy ledge traverse up and left aiming for the obvious chimney with a tree at it's top. Next, head right up loose and bushy ledges to a ledge at the base of the obvious crack on the main wall.
P3 (5.10c, 120') Climb the obvious crack in the main wall. There is currently a dead tree about 10 feet up the crack. Start with thin hands which quickly becomes wider. This leads to a spectacular thin hands crack in the left-hand wall. Next, you'll follow a large flake until a bolt appears out left. Clip the bolt and head left to a good ledge and a 2-bolt anchor.
P4 (5.8, 60') Down climb to a ledge at the base of the chimney. Climb up using the thin crack on the left until you reach the high point of the ledge in the corner.
P5 (5.11a, 100') Climb the wide crack above (5.8) to the obvious roof. Climb out the roof, finding a bolt at the far end. Continue up the crack above to a 2-bolt semi-hanging belay.
P6 (5.9+, 130') Continue up the crack into a short chimney capped by a roof. After turning the roof, follow an easy ramp out right to a huge ledge and belay.
P7 (5.5, 50') Climb up easy terrain, heading back left towards the big corner. Belay on the ledge at the base of the chimney. There are bolts at the "front" of this ledge; the bolts are part of the rap route.
P8 (5.11a/b, 120') Stem your way up the chimney to the hand crack on the left hand wall. Use the hand crack to gain the chimney above. Continue up the chimney/face climbing until you reach a second chimney. Tunnel up through until you pop out on a big ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P9 (5.8, 100') Climb a clean finger/layback flake on the right. From the end of the flake head right up a flared, lower-angle wide crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.
P10 (5.9, 100') From the anchor head right approximately 30ft to a small prow in the bulge. After surmounting the bulge follow the path of least resistance, with a bit of zig-zagging, to the summit. Belay from one of several trees.
P1 (5.8, 100') Climb the obvious hand crack in a small right-facing corner. Belay at the obvious ledge where the crack ends.
P2 (4th class, 150') Step down and left crossing a chimney. After gaining a bushy ledge traverse up and left aiming for the obvious chimney with a tree at it's top. Next, head right up loose and bushy ledges to a ledge at the base of the obvious crack on the main wall.
P3 (5.10c, 120') Climb the obvious crack in the main wall. There is currently a dead tree about 10 feet up the crack. Start with thin hands which quickly becomes wider. This leads to a spectacular thin hands crack in the left-hand wall. Next, you'll follow a large flake until a bolt appears out left. Clip the bolt and head left to a good ledge and a 2-bolt anchor.
P4 (5.8, 60') Down climb to a ledge at the base of the chimney. Climb up using the thin crack on the left until you reach the high point of the ledge in the corner.
P5 (5.11a, 100') Climb the wide crack above (5.8) to the obvious roof. Climb out the roof, finding a bolt at the far end. Continue up the crack above to a 2-bolt semi-hanging belay.
P6 (5.9+, 130') Continue up the crack into a short chimney capped by a roof. After turning the roof, follow an easy ramp out right to a huge ledge and belay.
P7 (5.5, 50') Climb up easy terrain, heading back left towards the big corner. Belay on the ledge at the base of the chimney. There are bolts at the "front" of this ledge; the bolts are part of the rap route.
P8 (5.11a/b, 120') Stem your way up the chimney to the hand crack on the left hand wall. Use the hand crack to gain the chimney above. Continue up the chimney/face climbing until you reach a second chimney. Tunnel up through until you pop out on a big ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P9 (5.8, 100') Climb a clean finger/layback flake on the right. From the end of the flake head right up a flared, lower-angle wide crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.
P10 (5.9, 100') From the anchor head right approximately 30ft to a small prow in the bulge. After surmounting the bulge follow the path of least resistance, with a bit of zig-zagging, to the summit. Belay from one of several trees.
Protection
- One set nuts, no RPs
- One set Aliens, green-red
- Two sets Camalots #.75-#3
- One #4 camalot
- One optional larger cam
Approach
This route is located on the southwest side of Red Arch Mountain.
Park at the first pullout on the left, past the lodge, as you head up canyon.
Hike up hill to the east utilizing a small drainage that creates a break in the lower cliff band. Follow game trails up and to the climbers' left to reach the base of the wall.
The start of the climb is identified by a hand crack in a corner located approximately 30 ft to the right of a thin finger crack, which is visible from the road.
Park at the first pullout on the left, past the lodge, as you head up canyon.
Hike up hill to the east utilizing a small drainage that creates a break in the lower cliff band. Follow game trails up and to the climbers' left to reach the base of the wall.
The start of the climb is identified by a hand crack in a corner located approximately 30 ft to the right of a thin finger crack, which is visible from the road.
Descent
Rappel from a tree on the summit to the top of pitch 9, then to the top of pitch 8.
Next, rappel to the ledge at the bottom of pitch 8. Use the anchor at the "front" of the ledge to rappel to the top of pitch 5.
Next, rappel to the top of pitch 3.
Next, rappel to the big bushy ledge at the bottom of pitch 3.
Now coil your ropes and scramble down and to the right (skiers' right) to a tree with slings. This tree is not located on the route of ascent. Rappel from this tree to the ground.
2 ropes are mandatory for the descent. A single 70m rope will not work.
After 2/24/2007 the next ascent party should bring new cord/slings for the rappel anchors. The current webbing is 13 years old! Please leave the rap biners in place!
Next, rappel to the ledge at the bottom of pitch 8. Use the anchor at the "front" of the ledge to rappel to the top of pitch 5.
Next, rappel to the top of pitch 3.
Next, rappel to the big bushy ledge at the bottom of pitch 3.
Now coil your ropes and scramble down and to the right (skiers' right) to a tree with slings. This tree is not located on the route of ascent. Rappel from this tree to the ground.
2 ropes are mandatory for the descent. A single 70m rope will not work.
After 2/24/2007 the next ascent party should bring new cord/slings for the rappel anchors. The current webbing is 13 years old! Please leave the rap biners in place!
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