Type: Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Smith & Dana Geary, 1975
Page Views: 42,896 total · 165/month
Shared By: Jakester on Mar 22, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Headache is anything but its namesake: an über-classic line with hands, fingers and a short, offwidth section.

Before undertaking, check at the vistor center as this climb has been subject to raptor closings in years past.

All belays are bolted.

Climb gets summer shade after 11 am. 

P1 (.10b) The climb begins with two options: either a one inch or a three inch crack, both splitter. Pick one and jam beautiful cracks to the first short, 10b offwidth crux, which protects really well with a 3.5 Camalot.

P2 (5.9+ or easy 5.10) Pitch two goes at 5.9+ or easy 5.10, depending on your height. Cruise up and left from the belay, working through some great .9 terrain until you clip a good bolt on the "puzzle piece" before a splitter roof. Surmount the roof, then up more .9 to the second belay.

P3 Begins with some really fun, easy, lower-angled cracks and gets progressively more difficult as you near the chains. Save those green Camalots, ideally one for after the big peapod. The pitch ends on a large ledge, from which you rap off 60 meters to a hanging rap anchor that is below and to the left of the anchor atop pitch 2. Rap another 60 to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

At minimum, two sets of cams from 3" to 3.5" (heavy on green and yellow camalots), a set of stoppers, 8 draws and 5 shoulder length slings.

All three belays are bolted with bomber bolts.

Bring two 60 meter ropes.