Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: A. Kuklinski, E. Powell - August 2011
Page Views: 14,789 total · 137/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Oct 3, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Road Work in Kolob Canyon Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are now two routes in between Huecos and Namaste, a hard 12- or so route with black hangers that is just right of Huecos, and this one which is 10 feet left of Namaste and is a fairly new route(2011) as no mention of it has been made here yet, and I found the route mostly devoid of chalk.

I gave this a grade of 11a/b(confirmed by FA party comment below) as it is just as juggy as the 10+ Unknown route but a few bolts longer. There was one long reach to a sandy sloper that made this feel a little cruxy, but sitdown huecos throughout make it pretty tame. It is about 2 bolts shorter than Namaste, and a 70m is plenty of rope. The huecos are a bit more fragile and some of the bolts are spaced 15 feet apart, so don't deck. Overall another fun, jugfest route that is worth doing.

Location

Starts on the sandy ledge just left of Namaste. Line of side pull huecos alone in a wide orange stripe

Protection

Probably 10 bolts plus 3-single ring anchors. Recommend a 70m rope.

Photos