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Routes in Namaste Wall

1/2 Route S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dost Mitra S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Huecos Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Namaste S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twins Paradox S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: A. Kuklinski, E. Powell - August 2011
Page Views: 8,121 total, 109/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are now two routes in between Huecos and Namaste, a hard 12- or so route with black hangers that is just right of Huecos, and this one which is 10 feet left of Namaste and is a fairly new route(2011) as no mention of it has been made here yet, and I found the route mostly devoid of chalk.

I gave this a grade of 11a/b(confirmed by FA party comment below) as it is just as juggy as the 10+ Unknown route but a few bolts longer. There was one long reach to a sandy sloper that made this feel a little cruxy, but sitdown huecos throughout make it pretty tame. It is about 2 bolts shorter than Namaste, and a 70m is plenty of rope. The huecos are a bit more fragile and some of the bolts are spaced 15 feet apart, so don't deck. Overall another fun, jugfest route that is worth doing.

Location

Starts on the sandy ledge just left of Namaste. Line of side pull huecos alone in a wide orange stripe

Protection

Probably 12 bolts plus 3 bolts chain anchor. Recommend a 70m rope.
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
  5.11a
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
  5.11a
I felt the bolting was just fine, it's cleaned up nicely and though you may get some sand after a lot of wind, holds were solid.
The anchors are becoming worrisome as this route now sees a lot of traffic and the 2 outside of the 3 bolt anchor are being pulled out of the rock. Both were visible to more than half inch below the hangers. This could use a rebolt for the anchor soon.
More often than not people are lowering to clean, bouncing and swinging to hit the lower bolts, no doubt putting a lot of force on the triangle of death at the spaced out anchor. Long chains, maybe a vertical orientation utilizing the center still decent bolt of the current anchor? Oct 20, 2017
Jordan Perlmutter  
  5.11a
Felt easier than the 10+ on this wall because the moves are more straight-forward. If you are even close to climbing this grade you have no excuse not to get on it. every hold is a jug and it's nearly impossible not to get to the top if you have functioning arms and legs. 70m rope was plenty. Mar 27, 2017
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.11a/b
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.11a/b
I agree with the last comment, the run-outs are kind of retarded. The first is just stupid because the rock is so soft and you'll end up in a tree if you rip a hold (which seems pretty likely), and the second run out you just sit there shaking your head about why there is a bolt 3 feet below the anchors after being a good solid 15 feet from the last bolt. Overall this route is a blast to climb, but the bolting is interesting to say the least. Oct 19, 2015
JulianG  
Great route but I have to make a couple of corrections. There are 10 bolts not 12 with two run outs. First one between the 4th and 5th where the rock is soft and crumbly footholds. As Javi said you will end up in the tree. The second one is between 9th and 10th bolts . Shorter than the first but sillier considering that there are 3 feet between the 10th bolt and 3 bolt anchor (the bolt on the right is a .25 in out of the rock)

Maybe to bolts are missing? May 6, 2015
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
  5.11c
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
  5.11c
I was wondering when someone would take the time and effort to bolt this obvious line. Nice job guys. Fun climbing although still a bit sandy the day we climbed it on a bluebird autumn day. Sep 23, 2013
Pat Mac
Tempe
 
Pat Mac   Tempe
 
Great addition to this wall. I found this to be the most sandy route on the wall. Still amazing climbing though and in my opinion has the most comfortable sit down hueco on the entire wall. Nothing broke for me but I did climb carefully. May 29, 2013
javi
saint george area
javi   saint george area
My buddy Dave led this. Ripped a hold @the 4-5 bolt and landed in the tree be carefull . Great heads up climbing. Jul 29, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Great climbing but a bit spooky and sandy. Nothing broke for me though so perhaps it is more solid than it appears. Mar 19, 2012
"The rangers watch this area and use it as a compass on handling climbing regulation in the area."

I too was very curious about the comment made about not developing this area and how it was being watched closely. When we set the route, the first thing we did was go right to the ranger station and ask what the rules were. They informed us to use a hand drill and notify them of the new route, both of which we did. If they had told us not to develop the area, we would have gone and climbed a big wall in the main valley (we are both climbers = trad, sport, boulderers, alpine, long, short). Not a big deal.

If there is new information, a change of rules, or something we did has made the management look at climbing in the area in a negative light, please let us know and we will correct the situation to make things right. The last thing that we intended was to do something that could possibly limit access to the entire park. Feb 25, 2012
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
"The park service is already quite pissed off about this area"

Really? Do you have information regarding this or can you elaborate please?

This comment seems very inconsistent with dialogue I have had over the last 5 years with ZNP LEO's and wilderness rangers. I live in the area and have had extended talks with 2 different LE's who are in charge of monitoring climbing in the park. They are both climbers and are very supportive of new route development, though they do encourage camo hangers and of course hand drilling. Truth be told climbers are viewed in a positive light. As a user group of the park we are much more responsible and low impact than other groups that require a large degree of park oversight and management like canyoneers. Feb 22, 2012
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Lets chill out on new sport routes on this wall! The park service is already quite pissed off about this area. Are you guys hand drilling these? PLEASE make sure that they cannot be seen from the trail. Are you using colored chalk? The rangers watch this area and use it as a compass on handling climbing regulation in the area. It would be a shame to see new anchors get banned because of a couple of one pitch routes while there are so many untouched big walls waiting for somebody to have a grand adventure on. Please remove these off Mountain Project and most importantly,

Please stop developing this wall!!!

Sincerely,

Troy Anderson
SLC, UT Feb 21, 2012
Thanks for posting something about this route and I'm glad that you enjoyed it. A friend and I set this route back in August 2011. We named it Dost Mitra (meaning Friend). We agree on the difficulty that you posted, about 5.11b. I just posted an article about setting the route on our blog, ClimbingHouse.com .

Since the route is new, some of the fragile holds will eventually come off and the sand will be removed as more people climb it. Feb 20, 2012