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Routes in Eagle Crag

Tooele Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

High above Rockville to the south, the Eagle Crag offers solitude away from the buses and sometimes overbearing tourists. The main tower, dubbed Aunt Jemima or Mrs. Butterworth's (due to its resemblance to these products) is the largest of the group.

The only route (so far) is the west side of the formation. Climb the tower via three pitches passing a few bolted anchors to the spectacular summit. Descend via rappels the same was you climbed up. A minimal rack is needed.
Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

To access this area, drive across the historic Rockville bridge and follow the dirt road as it turns west.

As you travel down this road keep and eye out for a dirt road on the left (south) side of the road. This road will take you to a dirt parking area. Any local can direct you how to get there. Last I knew, you could camp for FREE at this parking area. Times change quickly in this area, so that may not still be the case.

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Ok, an update on Mrs Butterworths tower/Toole tower. Eagle crag trailhead, Currently there is no camping in the Trailhead area. Had a talk with the nice ranger. I think the folks down the road don't like visitors in their public lands. I will contact DNR on this issue. Follow the trail to the tower. Do not deviate. The trail petters-out but there are a couple of cairns along the way. It is difficult finding the climb. As you're heading up the ridge it will be between two large towers. You need to head south between the two towers about 25 yards. It will be on your left. We left a couple of cairns at the start. Ok, this is important when your done climbing Don't , Repeat Do Not go down heading south between the two towers. Go back up and follow the ridge east the way you came up. The climb is fun. Well protected, but lots of loose rock. Only two cruxy areas. One on the second pitch a 9 or 10 move and one off the beginning of the 3rd pitch. We moved the belay up to the large wall with 3 bolts. Its a bit stiff getting off the belay but not as bad as it looks. hint, stay right. all for now. Apr 30, 2017
Draw left at second pitch anchor. Let me know if you find it and your interested in returning it. Thanks May 1, 2015
Nate Brown
Wilson, Wy
Nate Brown   Wilson, Wy
Tooele Tower--Yo White Harlem! Jul 24, 2009

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