Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Conrad Anker?
Page Views: 38,017 total · 176/month
Shared By: George Bell on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Road Work in Kolob Canyon Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is the "warm-up" route left of Huecos Rancheros and Namaste. It is shorter and only requires one rope. 10+ with 3 bolt 11+ extension.

Crank up overhanging huecos to the anchor.

All routes on this wall were established ground up placing bolts hanging off hooks!


7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor with carabiners.


This is the first bolted route from the left. It starts on a series of ladder rung-like horizontal features. This is the wide swath of huecos between two tin black steaks - has an intermediate anchor.


That rock looks incredibly cool! What a beautiful picture! I found a wall just like that in the backcountry of Zion once, severely huecoed and severely overhanging. It was that same deep red color, too. I've always wanted to go back and develop the wall. Good pic, I'm inspired! Mar 12, 2003
Magic Fingers
Boulder, CO
Magic Fingers   Boulder, CO
Bring bug spray, lots and lots of bug spray. Maybe a mesh tent with a little rip to belay the rope through. The routes are sooooooo worth it though. in the shade too. Jun 2, 2003
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
this route is visibly impressive, the color hurt my eyes. the features were a playground of big moves and hugely fun climbing. it requires high endurance and some creative thinking to discover rests. i felt like i was transported to mars on this route. Nov 19, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
The holds are so big that if this thing were vertical it'd be 5.6 (at least going by my local gym — I've never met a vertical 5.6 in the wild).

As it is, about 10-15 degrees overhanging, couple of kneebar rests, and I was still gasping at the end. Nov 19, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  

Video of Half Route. Also has a little footage of Huecos Rancheros. Nov 22, 2007
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
please bring two quicklinks and two rap rings to fix on these anchors, it sounds like people have stolen the carabiners off the Metolius Rap Hangers.

This route is so steep it would be nasty to try to clean it on rappel


Great route! Dec 10, 2008
Todd Gardner
Salt Lake City, UT
Todd Gardner   Salt Lake City, UT
Amazing sandstone huecoes. Positive holds and pumpy. There is a couple spots with tricky feet and burly lybacks. Great climb 10d sustained with a kneebar rest about bolt 3 or 4. May 30, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Fantastic and worth the 45 minute nature hike!! Jun 26, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
There is now a 3 bolt extension after the first anchors on this route, making it a 11- probably to a 2nd set of anchors. Not much chalk up there on this section. A 70m is enough for the whole thing. Oct 3, 2011
Chris KIlpatrick  
Great route and the area is well worth the hike up Feb 7, 2012
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful! Sep 18, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
Don't let the above comments fool you into thinking the extension is easy. I would say it felt harder than Namaste I OS both routes but the crux moves on this extension felt harder. Namaste felt easier. But I wouldn't call this climb a 5.12 its more of a harder 5.11. Holds are good on extension. Yes there isn't much chalk but super fun moves up high. May 29, 2013
steven sadler
steven sadler   SLC, UT
I'd agree with Pat Mac, the extension felt pretty hard, definitely in the harder 11's. I remember thinking 11+ when I got done. That said the extension was my favorite part of the route. Dec 31, 2013
Leify Guy
Leify Guy  
this is definitely the best and most fun 5.10 I've ever been on! also I'd consider it an 11a if you climb it without using any of the rests! awesomely awesome route! May 4, 2014
I think the 10c is right, it is just long and overhanging the moves are not hard and plenty of rests

Some one should go there and tighten the anchor bolts. May 6, 2015
Josh Tokioka
Kirkland, WA
Josh Tokioka   Kirkland, WA
There are now two quicklinks at the top of 1/2 route and I tightened up the left bolt. A great route with an awesome extension. Cheers to all who climb it! Mar 19, 2017
Joshua Pummel
Joshua Pummel   Murrieta
As of October 3rd, 2017 the hanger on the left anchor is loose. Oct 4, 2017
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, CO
Good warmup. The 3 bolt "extension" is harder than Namaste. Around .12a seems appropriate. One defined crux and some .11 climbing to the upper anchors. 70 meters barely lowers to the ground from this point. Oct 17, 2017
Paul Hutton
Kansas City, MO
Paul Hutton   Kansas City, MO
I onsighted Namaste. I couldn't get past the first bolt on the extension above the 5.10 on the left! I figured that's just how strong the FA and following consensus was. Then I climbed Namaste... something's awry! Nov 8, 2017
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
The anchors on the extension are sub-par. Bolts without hangers and small-diameter chain. I would not recommend lowering off of them until they are updated. Nov 16, 2017
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
Anyone know when and why the whole route was re-bolted from the original? Every single bolt has a bolt hole within about 1 foot of it. Also, if you read the Huecos Rancheros comments you'll see that Conrad ^^ Anker did not claim to have bolted the Half Route. Apr 12, 2018